Monday 22nd April saw 46 of Relais & Châteaux’s Grands Chefs, acknowledged leaders in their field, gathered at Old Billingsgate in London to create the annual Dîner des Grands Chefs, the third stage ina culinary world tour. Under the theme The World’s Kitchen by the Thames and working in teams of three, the Grands Chefs created 15 unique five-course menus paired with the finest Pommery vintage champagne for an audience of 600 gourmet guests.

Film stars, politicians, musicians, business luminaries and celebrities came to experience an inimitable gastronomic journey and witness live culinary theatre – for one night only – by some of the world’s greatest chefs.

Old Billingsgate, the original London Fish Market, was transformed into a bucolic English country scene with grassy paths and artful displays of herbs, vegetables and flowers.  Among the tables, cooking pods named after traditional British produce such as Golden Beetroot, Cornish Artichoke and Yorkshire Rhubarb were positioned so as to give the connoisseur audience an optimum view of the meal in the making.

After a Pommery champagne reception, the Dîner began with Raymond Blanc , Claude Bosi and Andrew Fairlie leading the Relais & Châteaux Grands Chefs tribe to their allocated cooking pods. 

Dream teams of chefs included an all-female line-up (Hélène Darroze of Restaurant Hélène Darroze in France, Annie Féolde of Enoteca Pinchiorri in Italy, and Margot Janse of Le QuartierFrançais in South Africa) and a “Loiseau” signature team (Patrick Bertron of Le Relais Bernard Loiseau in France, Michael Caines of Gidleigh Park in England, and Hiroshi Yamagushi of Kobe Kitano in Japan).  At the Table d’Honneur Relais & Châteaux International President Jaume Tàpies hosted 20 very special guests on a magnificent banquet style table; Raymond Blanc and Gary Jones of Le Manoiraux Quat’Saisons in England teamed up with Andrew Fairlie of Restaurant Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles in Scotland and Patrick Henriroux of La Pyramide near Lyon in France .

Each team prepped, cooked and presented their creations working with seasonal local produce to demonstrate and marry their combined talent and individual skills.   The meal was accompanied by the finest of Pommery champagnes including Cuvée Louise Pommery Rosé Millésime 2000, Cuvée Louise Millésime 1990 and Cuvée Louise Pommery Millésime 1999.

At the end of the dinner, Lord Dalmeny, Deputy Chairman of Sotheby’s UK , conducted a live auction and provoked a furious bidding war for six unique experiential prizes.  Each lot was exclusively created by Relais & Châteaux and their event partners.  They included the ultimate “Road to Happiness” of 31 overnight stays in different Relais & Châteaux hotels across the UK & Ireland , the most exquisite and prestigious experience in Champagne with Pommery and the ultimate Silversea cruise.  The night raised over £100,000 from the live and silent auctions with all proceeds going to the Grand Chefs’ chosen charity Action Against Hunger, the international humanitarian organization committed to ending child hunger.

Relais & Châteaux paid tribute to the Grands Chefs inviting each to the stage for a medal presentation to rapturous applause.  The Chefs returned to their pods to sign the menus for every guest to treasure as a memento of a special evening. After the performance all 46 chefs headed for a wrap-up party at The Corinthia to celebrate and prolong London ’s gastronomic event of the year.

Commenting on the success of the evening, President of Relais & Châteaux Jaume Tàpies said: “Passion, extraordinary British produce, the world ‘ s best culinary talents and exceptional generosity were just some of the ingredients that contributed to an unforgettable event.  46 Relais & Châteaux Grands Chefs came from all around the world to celebrate London as a leading gourmet capital.  By cooking together for passionate food lovers they demonstrated that good food combined with friendship is the best recipe for happiness”.

Attending VIPs included:

French Ambassador for the UK Bernard Emie, Minister of State for Agriculture and Food David Heath, Lord Dalmeny of Sotheby’s, Rosie Boycott representative of the London Mayor’s office, Sophie Ellis-Bextor, Richard Jones, Gillian Anderson, Salvatore Ferragamo, Judith Chalmers OBE, Murray Head, Lucia van der Post, Francois-Xavier Demaison, Emmanuelle Demaison, Cécile de Menibus, Jean-Félix Lalanne, Elodie Lalanne, Philippe Lellouche, Vanessa Demouy, Annie Lemoine, Hélène Segara, Mathieu Lecat, Elisa Tovati, Bernard de la Villardiere, Joyce Jonathan,

Participating Grands Chefs included:

Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex, Christophe Bacquié, Colin Bedford, Patrick Bertron, Raymond Blanc & Gary Jones, Holger Bodendorf, Claude Bosi, Thomas Bühner, Martin Burge, Michael Caines, Jonathan Cartwright, Jean-André Charial, Lanshu Chen, Jacques Chibois, Christopher Coutanceau, Giovanni D’Amato, Hélène Darroze, Pascal Devalkeneer, Andrew Fairlie , Annie Feolde & Riccardo Monco, Jérôme Ferrer & Alexandre Barre, Nils Henkel, Patrick Henriroux, Margot Janse, Michel Kayser, Jean-George Klein, Reto Lampart, Jean-Michel Lorain, Barbara Lynch, Marc et Pierre Meneau, Marc Meurin, Toni Mörwald & Roland Huber, Norbert Niederkofler & Nicolò Bagna, Patrick O’Connell, Emmanuel Renaut, Jean-Luc Rocha, Michel Rochedy & Stephane Buron, Georges Victor Schmitt, Yoshinori Shibuya, Emmanuel Stroobant, Simon Taxacher, Peter Tempelhoff, Davy Tissot, César Troisgros, Michael White, Hiroshi Yamaguchi.

Old Billingsgate, London , EC3R 6DX

EXAMPLES OF WHAT THEY ATE:  

-        Tandoori spiced blue lobster by Hélène Darroze

-        Lobster à la ‘Paul Emile’ by Marc and Pierre Meneau

-        Scallops à la nage with kumquats by César Troisgros

-        Scallops à la mode preserved with herbs and spices by Hiroshi Yamagushi

-        A Tin of Sin (Osetra caviar with crab and cucumber rillettes) by Patrick O’Connell

-        Devonshire crab and celery salad, pink grapefruit and buckler sorrel by Raymond Blanc and Gary Jones

-        Biltong (cured beef fillet) served with wild greens, sorghum and African sour fig by Margot Janse

-        Fillet of Angus beef with Parmesan sauce and aubergine by Giovanni d’Amato

-        Chicken from the Rhug Estate served with morels and pickled kale by Lanshu Chen

-        Chicken stuffed with morels and wild lime by Claude Bosi

About Relais & Châteaux

Relais & Châteaux is an exclusive collection of more than 520 of the finest hotels and gourmet restaurants in 60 countries. Established in France in 1954, the Association’s mission is to spread its unique art de vivre across the globe by selecting outstanding properties with a truly unique character. Relais & Châteaux is also a family of hoteliers and Grands Chefs from all over the world who share a passion for, and a personal commitment to, ensuring their guests are privy to moments of exceptional harmony.  To choose Relais & Châteaux is to experience an unforgettable celebration of the senses. From the vineyards in Napa valley to the beaches of Fiji , from the olive groves in Provence to the lodges in South Africa , Relais & Châteaux offers a chance to explore the Route du Bonheur and discover a wide range of distinctive destinations. The Relais & Châteaux signature reflects this ambition:  “ALL AROUND THE WORLD, UNIQUE IN THE WORLD.”

About Vranken-Pommery Monopole

Vranken-Pommery Monopole is the second largest champagne group. Its portfolio comprises the leading brands of VRANKEN with its Diamant and Demoiselle vintages, POMMERY with its Louise and Pop vintages, HEIDSIECK & CO MONOPOLE with its Impératrice vintage and CHARLES LAFITTE with its Orgueil de France vintage. The company owns the premium ROZES port wine brand and TERRAS DO GRIFO Douro wines. The group is the leading distributor of rosé wines with Sables de Camargue – gris de gris wines – from DOMAINES LISTEL and Côtes de Provence – rosé wines – from the CHATEAU LA GORDONNE. Vranken-Pommery Monopole owns the largest vineyard in Europe, spread among Champagne , Provence , the Camargue and Portugal .

About Action Against Hunger

Action Against Hunger | ACF International is an international humanitarian organisation committed to ending child hunger. Recognised as a leader in the fight against malnutrition, ACF works to save the lives of malnourished children while providing communities with sustainable access to safe water and long-term solutions to hunger. With 30 years of expertise in emergency situations of conflict, natural disaster and chronic food insecurity, ACF runs life-saving programmes in some 45 countries helping 7 million people each year. www.actionagainsthunger.org.uk

When a restaurant is clicked on a dialogue box appears with details of that restaurant; a new feature provided by google (Map Engine Light) allows you to click on the ‘find directions to’ icon (bottom right).  The map shows restaurant locations by postcode rather than specific address (for google maps technical reasons) so please accept if the marker is the wrong side of the road or up to 200 yards away from the target!

Happy Eating!

Set in 65 acres of gardens and parkland, Lainston House, part of the Exclusive Hotels group, has distinct character and charm. This graceful two storeyed 17^th century mansion was commissioned by Charles II and designed by Sir Christopher Wrenn.   Elegantly proportioned with a three bay centre, two bay projecting wings, archways and loggias, it is built in fine red brick, with a hipped roof and dormer windows.  Overall, it is a distinguished example of the William and Mary style. The site, however, is of medieval origins, as seen in the romantic ruins of the 12^th century chapel of St Peter and a well preserved dovecot, either side of the wrought iron entrance gate.

The public areas of this 50 roomed country house hotel are of are modest dimensions, giving a reassuring, homely character. The Drawing Room has a feminine quality with its bold colour palette of soft blues, creams and chocolates accented by vibrant turquoise, resulting in a light, airy feel. This eclectic mix is juxtaposed against the traditional background of an open fire, shuttered windows and chandelier lighting. While the décor might not appeal to more conservative tastes, there can no disagreement about the comfort afforded by the sumptuous sofas and armchairs.

The Cedar Bar, more masculine in tone, takes its name from the handsome panelling wrought from a single tree in the 1930s. The aspect of the room is especially pleasing. Guests, sipping a cocktail or a rare malt, armagnac or cognac, can enjoy an uninterrupted view of the avenue of lime trees which, being some 9/10^ths  of a mile, is the longest in England.

The Avenue Restaurant has handsome, dark paneling and gilt framed portraits. With its well-spaced tables dressed in fine napery, high backed burgundy leather chairs, patterned carpet and chandelier lighting, this room has a stately, classical ambiance. Adjacent to it is the elegant, brighter Carlton Room, which also has views of the avenue of limes.

Other public rooms include the mahogany paneled Mountbatten Room, used for private dining and chef’s table events. In cold weather, the open fireplace is an added attraction. Larger private events can be accommodated in the original 17^th century Dawley Barn which has benefited from an elegant conversion whilst retaining its high ceilings, wooden beams and other original features.

This mixture of old world charm and modern convenience is seen most strikingly in the hotel accommodation, which ranges from traditional guest rooms to exclusive suites. All individually designed, they reflect a thoughtful elegance which maximizes comfort and enjoyment.

I was lucky enough to stay in the ground floor Chapel suite which has a small private terrace and views of the wedding pavilion and chapel ruins. Decorated in warm pastel shades of purple, green and brown, this spacious set of high ceiling rooms is replete with classic furniture and fittings and state of the art facilities.

In the sitting room, an exquisite chandelier, standard lamps, open fireplace, gilt framed mirror, and a magnificent carved writing desk are amongst the fine traditional features. Alongside these are a cutting edge 32” flat-screen television, a dvd player, a Bose Audio system, wi-fi    access and a Nespresso coffee maker. The technophile’s playground extends to the bedroom where a 37” television, remotely raised from the foot of the bed, is the dominant feature.  In addition there is a Bose Wave CD/Radio Alarm system with Apple 30 pin connector docking. As if this is not enough, an Aqa television is fitted in the bathroom.

Luxurious furniture is provided by a three seat sofa with two armchairs and a decadent king sized bed. The exceptionally comfortable hand-made mattress, breathable duvet, and adjustable pillows – chosen from a menu of five – with calming lavender sleep balm placed on them at turn down, gave me  the best night’s sleep I have enjoyed in any luxury hotel. Twin sinks, a walk in rain bar shower, a jacuzzi bath and a selection of Plantation toiletries made using the bathroom a sheer delight.

With 65 acres of gardens and parkland to enjoy, in addition to the luxuriously comfortable public rooms and well equipped bedrooms, it would seem superfluous to suggest that the hotel needs any other facilities. That it lacks a spa is not a major disadvantage given the aforementioned assets. For the more active, however, there are tennis courts and a gym housed in the old well house. The grounds, especially the kitchen garden – where summer barbeques are also held – provide an endless source of interest, whilst the displays of falconry – a unique selling point – are a major attraction for guests.

General Manager Antonio Lopez-Bustos

Overseeing the whole operation is Antonio Lopez–Bustos, appointed General Manager from April 2013 but with five years’ experience as Operations Manager at the hotel. His engaging charm immediately puts guests at their ease, making him approachable and likeable. Whilst giving me a guided tour of the house and gardens, his love of Lainston House is powerfully evident. His vision now is to make its restaurant a food destination, exploiting to the full the talents of Head Chef Phil Yeomans. With a staff of 77, his trust of individuals is a key factor in motivating them to achieve their full potential.

Given that many jobs in the hotel require the appropriate attitude over technical skills, it remains key to employ those with a positive, caring outlooks and a willingness to please and learn. Antonio considers a well-rounded personality, able to adapt to the needs of the guest in a friendly, cheerful manner, as essential in anyone he employs. This facilitates the relaxed “home from home” feeling which attracts so much return trade amongst weekenders. Such loyalty is shown especially at Christmas when some 85% of guests are repeat visitors, whilst in the summer it is about 50%.

These figures reflect a very high satisfaction rate, confirmed by the service and discussions I enjoyed at Lainston House. Check in at the front desk was welcoming and courteous. The young attendant, dressed in hunting lodge style uniform, helped with my luggage efficiently and explained the features of my suite in detail. Later, when I had trouble with my internet reception (a fault with my computer), the night porter did his best to help, whilst showing me how to use the Nespresso coffee maker. (I am a technophobe). Service in the restaurant, both at dinner and breakfast was attentive without being obtrusive. Billy Taylor, the resident falconer, added value to to the day by discussing his role during my guided tour.

Overall, staying at Lainston House was a real joy. The beautiful setting, the supreme comfort of the rooms, the quality of the cuisine, the staggering attention to detail, and the strengths of the service, made it a highly memorable experience.

Head chef Philip Yeoman’s early career spanned the kitchens of The Dorchester, Harvey Nichols and Soho House before crossing the Atlantic to gain experience in the USA and Bermuda. Seven years at Lainston have seen his cooking acquire a distinct identity under the auspices of Executive Chef Andrew Mackenzie, who encourages maximum freedom of creativity. More recently, the two Michelin starred John Campbell has been has been acting as a consultant. This, combined with the inherent abilities of Phil, have led to a blossoming of The Avenue’s cuisine, which has been awarded three AA rosettes.

Leading a team of 15, Phil caters for a maximum of 60 covers in the restaurant, together with a host of special functions – the hotel is very popular for weddings and conferences. As a leading member of Hampshire Food Fair and Farmers’ Market – the largest in England – Phil is passionate about the sourcing of high quality regional produce, the suppliers of which are credited on the menu; hence scallops come from Portland Shellfish, lamb from the Hinwood flock, Broughton and pork from Lainston’s own pigs. The four acre kitchen garden, developed over the last two years and inspired by Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons, provides 90% of his herbs and root vegetables, alongside a range of other vegetables and fruit.

Phil’s style, modestly described as “English cooking with a modern twist”, is based on classical roots, with the employment of modern techniques. Using water baths to maintain consistency of cooking is clearly in evidence, as is a degree of molecular wizardry in the production of foams, gels and spherification. However, they are not used to excess and are integral parts of the dish, adding flavour and texture.

The menu is adventurous, showing an assured understanding of taste and texture. Unusual but compatible combinations are seen in a starter of scallops with smoked eel, and mains of veal rump with goat’s curd and lemon, or halibut with oxtail, parsnip and walnut. Meat can involve two cuts cooked differently, best seen in the top selling roast loin of lamb with braised shoulder or pork fillet with braised pig’s cheek.  Desserts such as white chocolate, hob nob biscuit, toffee popcorn and mandarin sorbet can be playful and innovative.

Although some dishes appear relatively simple, this is not to underestimate the complexity and labour intensity of their production. Flavours are pure, with main ingredients allowed to speak for themselves. Textures and temperatures are well judged whilst the final presentation is clean and delicate.

The structure of the seasonally changing menu features five choices in each course, with cheese instead of dessert or as an additional course. Breads are baked on the premises. The ones sampled, onion brioche, baguette and country bread were all exemplary in their crisp crust and firm crumb.

The seven course tasting menu (with a vegetarian alternative) does not duplicate any of the dishes on the carte, showing the versatility and range of Phil’s cooking.

An amuse-bouche featured beetroot jelly, with goat and lemon curd. This combination of strong flavours was brilliantly conceived, the sweetness of the beetroot and richness of the goat’s curd being cut by the citrus. Candied hazelnuts added crunch to balance the other  smoother textures.

A terrine of loin and confit shoulder and leg of wild rabbit had a depth of flavour not usually found in bland inferior versions. Layered with cabbage and shitake mushrooms, it was moist and well-seasoned. Blackberry and pear puree with turnip shavings gave an element of sweetness and crispness. (Wine: Nyetimber Classic cuvee, Sussex)

Beautifully fresh seared scallops were perfectly timed to produce and caramelised crust and soft sweet flesh. An intense bisque, reduced almost to a demi-glace, complemented the seafood well, as did the silky smooth cauliflower puree and a “dressing” of sliced razor clams, which added a firmer texture. A molecular “snow” of beurre noisette powder gave an exciting temperature contrast to this warm dish. (Wine: FMC, Chenin Blanc, Ken Forrester; Stellenbosch, 2008)

The next dish was a tour de force of vegetarian cookery. Jerusalem artichoke cooked to an al dente texture, and also in puree form, worked well with muted saltiness of parmesan crisps. Roasted black garlic perfumed the whole of this beautifully balanced composition which was finished by a scattering of chestnut shavings.

Beef blade benefitted from long slow cooking in a water bath before being finished in the pan. Apple batons added an element of freshness although the horseradish meringues needed more bite to offset their sweetness. Cep puree added deep earthy notes and the red onion marmalade and rich jus brought the dish together. (Wine: Exclusive hotels edition, Rioja, 2005)

A pre dessert of apple compote, vanilla espuma and crumble was well executed, each component adding a distinct flavour and texture. The star however was a quenelle of kalamansi sorbet which added an intense citrus note.

Finally a highly skilled and ambitious dessert featured quenelles of dark chocolate mousse, spheres of liquorice mousse, and lemon mousse encased in a dark chocolate cigarette. The richness of these decadent elements was offset by a lemon sphere, which oozed an intensely sharp liquid centre when cut. Almonds gave a much needed crunch to offset the overall smoothness of the other elements. (Wine: Elysium, black muscat, Andrew Quady, Central Valley, California 2010)

Strong coffee and excellent petit fours – passion fruit jelly, truffle, Florentine, chocolate crisp and fudge completed this distinguished meal.

All this was enhanced by knowledgeable, unobtrusive service and wines – from an award winning list – chosen by head sommelier| Peter Foulds.  His infectious enthusiasm – in particular for Nyetimber wines – and comprehensive knowledge are a testament to his passion and dedication to his craft.

Clearly the quality of the cooking at Lainston House hotel deserves a higher national profile than it has received so far. Certainly, the tasting menu I enjoyed was on a level equal with those eaten at other  Michelin starred restaurants. Indeed, Phil Yeomans has created a cuisine of which he can be justifiably proud and Fine Dining Guide will watch his career with interest.

What do you look for in a good neighbourhood restaurant? A high standard of cuisine consistently maintained; a strong following of regulars attracted by value for money prices; a warm welcome with friendly, efficient service; and pleasant surroundings in which to enjoy a relaxed meal out.

Charlotte’s Place in Ealing has all these qualities in abundance. But this is no ordinary neighbourhood restaurant. Winner of the 2013 Good Food Guide’s London Readers’ Restaurant of the Year Award, and currently holding two AA rosettes it is developing a higher profile in the capital as a whole.  Opened in 1984 and still bearing the name of the original owner, it was refurbished, rebranded and reopened under new ownership in 2005. Since then its reputation for being THE PLACE – forgive the pun – to eat locally has been regained.

Its appeal lies partly in a sheer lack of pretention. Located in a quiet street overlooking a corner of Ealing Common, it shares its home in a 150 year old house with an adjacent pub, The Grange, and is barely noticeable from the residential properties nearby. Ringing the doorbell in the side entrance gives an intimate, domestic feel which is emphasised by the simple décor of the ground floor dining room. Floral prints, large mirrors, wall lighting, wooden floor and plain, candle lit tables make the room cosy, compact and comfortable.

With a maximum of 54 covers, over half of which are in the basement dining room, the restaurant is open for lunch and dinner all week, a remarkable feat given the kitchen is smaller than those in modern homes, and is only able to accommodate four of the six chefs at any one time.

Chef Greg Martin leads the brigade offering what the restaurant describes as “traditional and European food.” Certainly, the presence of roast beef at Sunday lunch would confirm this. However, the set menu of six starters, mains and desserts shows a pleasing degree of ambition in its use of first rate, well sourced, seasonal ingredients. Consider for instance Heirloom Beetroot with goat’s curd cigar or crisp pig’s cheek, pork and fennel sausage roll , pork terrine and sauce Gribiche as interesting starters; or Home cured Saddleback pork loin, Chorizo , tomato and white bean stew as a main.

Whilst dishes are mercifully devoid of foams, purees and gels, the cooking is thoughtful and precise, with modern interpretations and combinations. A few dishes executed well in each course seems to be the key focus.

Pricing is also well judged: three courses at £29.95 for dinner, £19.95 for lunch (£5 extra at weekends) with reductions for two courses constitute real bargains. Even more so is the early evening offer of three courses and an aperitif for £26.95. Supplements – so often encountered in many restaurants – are noticeable by their absence.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a Wednesday evening in March and was delighted with the dishes sampled.

Cornish mackerel tart featured slices of the raw fish, anchovy fillets, diced peppers parmesan shavings and balsamic dressing on a crisp puff pastry base smeared with tapenade. These strong flavours and contrasting textures were perfectly balanced, allowing the beautiful freshness of the oily fish to take pride of place.

A raviolo of delicately smooth pasta was generously filled with Cornish crab. The sweetness of the well-seasoned white meat worked well with the braised leeks and a chive butter sauce, making this a rich, unctuous dish.

A main course saw meltingly tender shredded braised oxtail topped with a tranche of roasted cod accurately timed to produce succulent flakes of translucent flesh. Added richness and sweetness was given by caramelised onion to contrast with the artichoke puree, cabbage and brown butter sauce. Crisp potato waffles crowned this robust tour de force of a surf and turf dish.

Equally accomplished was the more classical ballotine of chicken. Gently poached then wrapped in smoked bacon and finished in the pan, it was well seasoned and moist. Simple garnishes of buttered potatoes and steamed purple sprouting broccoli allowed the main element to shine, whilst a rich sauce spiked with tarragon lifted the whole dish.

Nor did the third courses disappoint. A classical pear and almond tart featured crisp pate sucree with soft frangipane and with sweet poached pear. The accompanying vanilla ice cream was velvety smooth whilst the butterscotch sauce gave a not too sweet a finish.

A selection of fine cheeses from La Fromagerie were in peak condition. Quince paste and oat cakes added to their enjoyment.

Overall, this was a most impressive meal, enhanced by well informed, engaging service and well- chosen wines from the extensive wine list. Given the skill shown in the cooking, the range of dishes offered and the competitive prices, it is no surprise that Charlotte’s Place is open all week, with 90% of diners booking to guarantee their places. Success has also led to expansion, with the opening of daughter restaurant Charlotte’s Bistro in Chiswick in July 2010. This has already gained Michelin Bib Goumands in 2011 and 2012. Fine Dining Guide will watch the progress of both restaurants with interest.

1. Fat Duck, Bray, Berkshire.  3 Michelin Stars, 10/10 Good Food Guide, 5 AA Rosettes. Points 58

2. Gordon Ramsay, London.  3 Michelin Stars 9/10 Good Food Guide, 4 AA Rosettes. Points 53

3. L’Enclume, Cartmel, Cumbria. 2 Michelin Star, 10/10 Good Food Guide, 5 AA Rosettes. Points 52

4. Sat Baines, Nottingham, Notts. 2 Michelin Stars 9/10 Good Food Guide, 5 AA Rosettes. Points 49

5. Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, London. 3 Michelin Stars, 8/10 Good Food Guide, 3 AA Rosettes. Points 48

6. Waterside Inn, Bray, Berkshire. 3 Michelin Stars 7/10 Good Food Guide, 4 AA Rosettes. Points 47

7. Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons, Oxford, Oxon. 2 Michelin Stars, 8/10 Good Food Guide 5 AA Rosettes. Points 46

7. Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley, London. 2 Michelin Stars, 8/10 Good Food Guide, 5 AA Rosettes. Points 46

7. Hibiscus, London. 2 Michelin Stars, 8/10 Good Food Guide, 5 AA Rosettes. Points 46

10. Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, Rock, Cornwall. 2 Michelin Stars, 9/10 Good Food Guide, 3 AA Rosettes. Points 45

11. Le Champignon Sauvage, Cheltenham, Glos. 2 Michelin Stars, 8/10 Good Food Guide, 4 AA Rosettes. Points 44

11. The Square, London. 2 Michelin Stars, 8/10 Good Food Guide, 4 AA Rosettes. Points 44

11. Whatley Manor, Malmesbury, Wiltshire. 2 Michelin Stars, 8/10 Good Food Guide, 4 AA Rosettes. Points 44

14. Michael Wignall at The Latymer, Bagshot, Surrey. 2 Michelin Stars, 7/10 Good Food Guide, 5 AA Rosettes.  Points 43

15. Le Gavroche, London. 2 Michelin Stars, 8/10 Good Food Guide, 3 AA Rosettes. Points 42

15. The Ledbury, London. 2 Michelin Stars, 8/10 Good Food Guide, 3 AA Rosettes.  Points 42

17. Midsummer House, Cambridge, Cambs. 2 Michelin Stars, 7/10 Good Food Guide, 4 AA Rosettes. Points 41

17. Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles, Auchterarder. 2 Michelin Stars, 7/10 Good Food Guide, 4 AA Rosettes. Points 41

17. Gidleigh Park, Chagford, Devon. 2 Michelin Stars, 7/10 Good Food Guide, 4 AA Rosettes. Points 41

17. Pollen Street Social, Mayfair, London. 1 Michelin Star, 9/10 Good Food Guide, 4 AA Rosettes. Points 41

People’s fascination with ranked lists of restaurants seemed to take off around a decade ago with the launch of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.  Now such a practice is common place with The Sunday Times, Harden’s, Zagat, Trip Advisor, Elite Traveler Magazine amongst others all producing lists, some with ranking scores.  The practice has extended to Elizabeth Carter, consultant editor of The Good Food Guide, who started championing a top 50 restaurant list each year with the launch of the guide.

An interesting point of departure is how these scores and lists are produced.  Some pride themselves on being purely reader feedback such as The Sunday Times/Harden’s bi-annual list, Zagat and likewise the Trip Advisor Awards for restaurants.  Harden’s add an element of sophistication to the Sunday Times compilation by scoring those establishments across a number of factors such as food, service and ambience as well as factoring in a value for money ‘in category’ element.  Zagat, now owned by google, is largely free to access for google+ subscribers and shows marks out of 30 for food, service and decor.  This guide too is purely reader feedback but with the fact that every google search for a restaurant will provide the Zagat score on the right hand side of the screen means we should expect this guide to become increasingly powerful across Europe.  As Trip Advisor quietly moved from the hotel feedback rating business into restaurants it quickly gained momentum as a yardstick of a restaurants success, to the point where software systems can incorporate the Trip Advisor score into incentive schemes for staff (Hotel’s with restaurants currently). As with all purely reader feedback systems the element of ‘did they actually eat there’, ‘do they have an axe to grind’ or even ‘do they know what they’re talking about’ will always come into play.

The latest version of 50 Best Restaurants list is due out later in April and has certainly been successful in promoting the elite restaurant category in the media.  The hoopla extends through twitter to the broadsheet and television media which can only be a good thing for the profile of top end restaurant dining on a global level.  This list has gathered significant momentum since its inception and has become considerably more sophisticated in its production.  The question will remain with global lists that are produced by “panel” is who has visited enough restaurants outside of their own “region” to make a reasoned judgement about the relative merits of the better restaurants on the planet.  There’s even a limit to how many of these Andy Hayler can visit in a 12-18 month period.

The Top 20 Restaurants in Britain 2013 List above has been derived from guides that focus purely on the food on a plate where restaurants are benchmarked for quality of the food end product by teams of anonymous inspectors.  This process attempts to make the objective out of a subjective business but nonetheless the enduring popularity of these guides is testament to the industry and consumer respect for their output.  Michelin, Which? Good Food Guide and The AA Restaurant Guide have all been going for a long time and remain point in time paperback publications (for now).  In the web/twitter age the pressure must be mounting on these guides to go exclusively on-line and make real time updates of their awards.

The ‘Street Food’ concept has become de rigueur for those seeking informal dining and is something to which Lebanese cuisine, seems ideally partnered. Based largely around Mezze, which like antipasto or tapas, offers the diner a cornucopia of choice, the food is vibrant, fresh and exciting and ideal for enjoying sociably with friends.

Yalla Yalla, established in 2008, is at the forefront of taking Lebanese cooking from the mundanity of Edgware Road to the hip Soho crowd. Initially based at a tiny site in the heart of Soho with only 28 seats, Jad Youseff and his partner Aga Ilska have expanded their business rapidly on the back of brisk trade, with a larger venue off Oxford Street and, more recently, a pop-up restaurant in Shoreditch.

Fine Dining Guide visited the Winsley Street restaurant on a Tuesday evening. Approaching the door, the popularity of this eatery was immediately obvious, with a large queue stretching out the door. Like many of its contemporaries, Yalla Yalla does not take bookings, however a relaxed bar area and efficient service mean that the wait for a table is far from arduous.

Drinks orders were taken quickly and our refreshment arrived promptly, accompanied by a tempting selection of the usual nibbles. Unusually, this included some extremely moreish slices of turnip that had been pickled with beetroot, along with requisite olives and fiery peppers.

As we enjoyed our drinks and accompaniments, we reviewed the menu and soaked up the surroundings. The decor, as one might expect, is contemporary and open plan, meaning noise can carry somewhat. Generally this adds to the vibrancy of the place, as does the close proximity of neighbouring tables. The walls are adorned with bright modern art pieces depicting street scenes from Beirut, and the soft furnishings appear similarly on theme, with cushions in the style of Kaffiyeh.

The menu is extensive, particularly when it comes to Mezze, and as we discovered, generous portions can make a hazard of over-ordering!

Staples such as Tabboule and Hommos were expertly delivered, with some interesting twists, for example, the Hommos Shawarma, with tender pieces of lamb shoulder were heaped upon a rich and glossy chickpea mash. This contrasted well against the fresh and slightly tart flavour of dishes such as the Samboussek Jibne, pastry parcels stuffed with Feta and Halloumi cheeses. Fine Dining Guide also sampled some more unusual options such as Makale Samak, an assortment of deep-fried seafood including Calamari, White Bait and Tiger Prawns, served with a chilli and mint yoghurt dip. One of the greatest achievements on the menu however, is the Sawda Djej, Chicken Livers sautéed with garlic and pomegranate molasses. This has been awarded the recognition as one of the top 100 dishes in 2012 according to Time Out Magazine, an accolade of which the perfectly cooked chicken livers were more than worthy.

Delicate spices and abundant starches form the backbone of most main dishes, enriched by the generous use of fresh herbs. The Lamb Casserole was rich and flavoursome, albeit slightly overpowered with Cumin. The Chicken Shawarma was more delicately flavoured, accompanied by a fresh red pepper salad.  All dishes were served with delicious buttered rice and had in common a generous use of authentic and relatively expensive ingredients, used more sparingly by some other proprietors.

Despite there being plenty to feast heartily on for the savoury courses, dessert is a treat not to be overlooked.  For those who have really over-done it, there is a decent range of refreshing sorbets. On the other hand those who are feeling more capacious will enjoy the sticky sweetness of the Baklawa selection or lighter options such as Mohalabya – fragrant milk pudding – topped with perfectly balanced Pomegranate syrup.

Prices are very reasonable, with Mezze ranging from £4-5 per dish and main dishes all coming in at less than £15. There is also a varied and well-compiled wine selection, including wines by the glass. With all this in mind, the name of Yalla Yalla seems very fitting, meaning ‘come on’ or ‘get going’ in Arabic.

Great wine, great art, great food. This unique combination of three delights is offered at The Vineyard. A member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux Association and awarded five AA red stars; this “Restaurant with luxury suites attached” is owned by Sir Peter Michael.

Sir Peter Michael

Since 1998, when The Vineyard opened, he has lovingly nurtured it to reflect his vision and passions, receiving a host of accolades, one of the most recent being Decanter /Laurent-Perrier Restaurant of the Year 2012. His success in the hospitality industry matches that of his other entrepreneurial ventures in the varied worlds of high tech, wine, art and music – he is probably best known to the general public as the founder of Classic FM.

Sir Peter Michael’s position as patron of art and sculpture is evident both inside and outside the two storeyed Portland stone building.

For guests arriving at night, the flames dancing on the ornamental pool at the front of the hotel create an immediate impact. The magical changing patterns of light, from William Pye’s metal, stone and water sculpture, Fire and Water are especially visible from the restaurant and guest bedrooms.

On entering the recently remodelled reception area another dramatic spectacle awaits – a stunning glass walled and floored wine vault. Extending to the basement, it contains over 880 bottles from the extensive and comprehensive cellar. Almost as a substitute for the absence of a vineyard on the estate, it leaves guests in no doubt that this is a serious destination for wine.

The near (but not unhealthy) obsession with wine is also evident in tasting classes, as well as tasting menus with matching flights of wine at three price levels, and in a magnificent wine list of 3000 bins (The Long List), in which California takes pride of place, and from which 100 (The Short list) can be taken by the glass.

Clearly visible in the room (California Bar) beyond the glass vault is the mural “After the Upset,” completed in 2012 by Gary Myatt to commemorate the 1976 Judgement of Paris. This celebrated blind wine tasting resulted in Californian wines being rated higher than the finest French vintages. The shocked, incredulous faces of the major French wine aficionados are graphically depicted, with Sir Peter Michael, who owns a winery in California’s Sonoma County, looking on, (no doubt with a certain glee?).

Judgement of Paris, Sir Peter Michael (far left) looking on...

An equal love of art and sculpture manifests itself on the walls of the lounge, restaurant, long corridors, gardens and guest accommodation.  Articulate – An Introduction to Art at The Vineyard – provides a tour and commentary to familiarise visitors with the major attractions. These include notable collections by Ronald Searle, Boris Smirnoff and Doris Zinkeisen, alongside favourite pieces such as Bucolique by impressionist Henri Martin. With its idyllic depiction of rural life, Sir Peter claims “It is the most perfect picture that epitomises everything about The Vineyard”.

Sensual pleasures of a different kind are provided by the 5 Bubbles Spa. The circular pool with Jacuzzi, sauna, steam room and four treatment rooms allow guests to relax and be pampered in peaceful surroundings. A wide variety of massages, manicures, pedicures, facials are on offer using Darphin and The Vineyard’s own Red Grape products.

The split level restaurant has benefited from a recent refurbishment, its grandeur with sweeping staircase and decorative balustrade being enhanced by impressive lighting and soft furnishings, reflecting a more contemporary design. Well-spaced tables with fine napery, blinds and sumptuous drapes add to the elegance of the room, whilst works of art and sculpture provide a rich backdrop to the dining experience. It was pleasing also to see the owner dining here, as he regularly does.

Pre- and post-prandial drinks might be taken in the California Bar or the spacious, comfortable lounge which has plenty of individual armchairs and a  fire. Alternatively, guests could take their time admiring the numerous pieces of art and sculpture throughout the hotel.

Given their luxurious quality, retiring to one’s room is equally attractive. Of the 49 rooms, all of which are named after iconic wines from around the world, 32 are suites. Room 210, where I stayed, is named after Joseph Phelps of Napa Valley and Sonoma Coast, California. As with other deluxe suites, which feature separate sitting rooms, the design is that of the renowned Serena Richards Interiors.

Decorated in bold tones of violet and grey, with the use of ecofabrics, it provides spacious accommodation with an understated elegance.  With a first floor view of the ornamental lake, both sitting room and bedroom benefit from French windows and thick cotton drapes. Tastefully furnished with a two-seater settee, striped armchair, antique table, sideboard and mirrors, soft lighting, modern conveniences come in the form of a flat screen TV – thankfully not too wide – soft lighting and a mini bar. (For me, the lack of tea and coffee making facilities is a bonus, giving an excuse to call for room service or visit the lounge and California Bar.) The bedroom is superbly comfortable with plump feather pillows and crisp Egyptian cotton sheets. The marble tiled bathroom offers the softest, fluffiest towels and bathrobes with a range of designer toiletries.

General Manager Hayden Bowl

Overseeing the whole operation is the charismatic and inspirational General Manager, Hayden Bowl. At interview he enthused about the opportunities and challenges involved in running such a distinguished property. With a management style that is ‘the host of the house’, he is much in evidence during most of the day.  Hayden is vigorously proud of his team – “his family” – and is fully aware that happy staff means happy guests. Preferring to give immediate praise rather than assessing snapshots of individual performance, he appreciates the importance of personality – sometimes more so than paper qualifications – when recruiting and promoting staff. A great believer in continuous staff training – “knowledge is cool”- Hayden can see the benefits of, for example, wine tasting and matching with food, which gives added value to both staff and guest. Sharing an appreciation of the art works is also important in staff development, given The Vineyard’s unique selling points.

A customer-led approach, so guests see their stay as very much a home from home, is central to his philosophy of hospitality. Understandably, he is excited about Daniel Galmiche’s new dining concept, which offers maximum freedom of choice in food and wine. This also extends to a more guest friendly approach to such things as the dress code.

Certainly, the general sense of enjoyment and relaxation amongst guests at dinner – so noticeable by its absence in similar ranked establishments – is a testament to the success of Daniel’s and Hayden’s vision. It is also reflected in the seamless, friendly and informative service seen throughout my stay, from the welcome at reception, dinner in the restaurant, through to breakfast and departure. Overall, The Vineyard offers so much more than luxury accommodation and fine dining: Sir Peter Michael and the whole of the restaurant and hotel teams have created a destination venue of which they can be justifiably proud.

The sommeliers will then choose matching wines from three grades, priced accordingly. There are other alternatives including the Discovery menu of the five courses with matching wines, and the ultimate Judgement of Paris menu which features two wines, one Californian, one French, with each of seven courses!

Daniel admits the new formula places pressure on the kitchen, the sommeliers and front of house. However he demonstrates the energy and determination to make it work, and has adapted his kitchen to facilitate this approach. His mainly young brigade is also committed to its success.

Prioritising the needs of his diners rather than the safer, chef-led approach that might please the guides, is paramount. Accessibility to a wider range of smaller dishes and a greater range of (sometimes expensive) wines by the glass, is equally important. Indeed, he sees this as future of fine dining. The result so far has been impressive, with a vibrant relaxed ambience and sense of fun pervading the dining room. This is especially noticeable on Saturday evenings when 90 covers are often served.

Rightfully proud of his Decanter /Laurent-Perrier Restaurant of the Year 2012 award, Daniel has been advised to trademark his unique formula before it is copied. Indeed, chefs and food glitterati have been impressed by observing it in action. Moreover, many of the guests are Londoners, keen to escape the constraints of dining in the capital.

Daniel Galmiche’s cooking style, based on the classics, has become increasingly light, colourful and fragrant, with Mediterranean influences. Employing first rate ingredients, he is passionate about their provenance and sustainability, from line caught fish, hand dived scallops, single estate, grass fed meat, to maize/hand fed foie gras. Many seasonal dishes are locally sourced.  Embracing modern techniques to enhance flavour and texture, dishes comprise relatively few ingredients, allowing the main element to shine. The use of foams, gels and purees is evident but not to excess and added not for mere decoration but to add taste and texture. Precise timing of meat and seafood dishes is a major strength which, given the various menu permutations, is a staggering feat in itself. So too is the final dressing of plates – not over-elaborate but labour intensive nevertheless. The overall result is clear flavours, balance of tastes and textures, and elegant, clean presentation.

Fine-Dining-Guide opted for a five course tasting menu with matching wines on a busy Thursday evening in March 2013.

The three breads – country farm, soda and rosemary and potato – were all exemplary in their crisp crust and delicate crumb.

A soft disc of guinea fowl ballotine, expertly poached, rolled and chilled to give a mild gamey flavour, was given a lift by the addition of lemon zest. Textural contrast was provided in the crisp yellow frisee leaves dressed with lemon and a scattering of sourdough crumbs mixed with walnuts. The luscious floral notes and minerality of the wine was a highly satisfying match with the food. (Wine: Kistier Chardonnay, California 2009)

Pressed terrine of foie gras had a creamy texture and superb flavour. Dressed with celery gel and raisin puree to give sweetness and carrot batons for texture, this was another refined, balanced composition. The magical finishing touch was spice of angels which gave a gentle anise fragrance to the dish. Again, the acidic apple and pear notes in the wine proved a good foil for the richness on the plate. (Wine: Torbreck Australia, 2008)

A tranche of foie gras was seared to produce a caramelised crust and soft melting interior. Smooth celeriac puree mixed with cardamom added an earthy warmth, whilst orange and chicory salad gave a freshness and zing which cut the richness of the delectable piece of offal.

Seared, hand dived Orkney scallops retained their sweet succulence under their caramelised crust. This was balanced by Iberico ham which added a mild saltiness with broccoli florets and gel giving a gentle bitterness. A sprinkling of blanched almonds provided a nutty textural contrast to the finished dish. The crisp, dry Alsace Riesling with lemon notes complemented these elements well. (Wine: Trimbach F Emile, France 2007)

Both fish dishes benefited from accurate seasoning and timing, with minimal garnishes. The thick fillet of Cornish sea bass had delicate translucent flakes under its crisp skin. Wilted red chard, chive dressing and a sprinkling of quinoa were lively, well balanced accompaniments. The honey and spice flavours of the dry Californian white did full justice to this to this dish. (Wine: Tables Creek, California 2009)

Softer in texture but equally flavoursome was the fillet of Cornish brill. Here, the delicate sweetness of this pan roasted fish was balanced the more robust, earthy flavours of chanterelles, salsify and Swiss chard. A rich, intense poultry jus brought the contrasting elements together well.  This dish could take a medium bodied red wine which the Pinot Noir did perfectly. (Wine: Byron Pinot Noir, California 2009)

The poultry dish married the crisp skinned breast of corn fed chicken with a classic accompaniment of mushroom in puree form to intensify its flavour. Kale added both colour and flavour whilst potato and chive ribbons, stir fried slowly, gave a crisp texture and mild onion fragrance. The saucing for this dish was again exemplary. The use of the same Pinot Noir as for the brill amply demonstrated the both the versatility of the wine and the skill of the sommelier. (Wine: Byron Pinot Noir, California 2009)

The final savoury dish was saddle of Balmoral estate venison, cooked to a medium rare to maximise its mild, gamey flavour. Cooking this dish reflects Daniel’s meticulous attention to detail to show case ingredients at their best: the venison is lightly brushed with espresso from his own coffee mix before being gently cooked sous-vide and finished in the pan to add colour and more flavour. Finally, before being sent to the table, a grating of 70% Andoa single estate Fair Trade chocolate from Venezuela is added. This regal dish, in all senses of the word, was master-class of game cookery, producing a tender, almost melting texture. The sweetness of butternut squash, the textural contrast of hazelnuts and pearl barley and the vibrant notes of spring greens helped to make this a highly satisfying dish. Pairing a Uruguayan red might not seem to be an immediate choice, but the one chosen had a lovely sweetness with spice and oak notes that worked well with the venison. Again, the breadth of knowledge of the sommelier and the ability to share this with disarming charm was amply demonstrated. (Wine: Preludio  Deicas Tannat, Uruguay 2010)

Often, desserts can be an anti-climax after the embarrassment of riches that precede them. This was not the case, the pastry section displaying its strengths to the full. The new menu concept requires consistency across the courses as well as amongst sweet and savoury.

Griottine cherry and cranberry terrine balanced sweet and sour elements well in a layered composition that was complemented by a fragrant pistachio parfait. The strength of flavour of the kirsch marinated cherries helped to make this a very adult dessert, white port being a very acceptable wine accompaniment (Wine: Caldas Alves de Sousa, Portugal NV)

Finally, a delicate cylinder of dark chocolate filled with ginger ice cream, and pineapple, was crowned with a tonka bean emulsion which added a characteristic fragrance of vanilla, cinnamon and cloves.

Good coffee and mini lemon tarts, passion fruit jellies and chocolate truffles completed a first rate meal. Pino Marletta, Restaurant Host Manager, ensured that service went smoothly, with dishes and wines being clearly and concisely explained. This was a highly memorable tasting menu that did not falter on any dish and which skilfully balanced the composition of courses. It is a mystery why a Michelin star has not been awarded, but it can only be a matter of time before this distinction, gained by Daniel Galmiche in his previous restaurants, is achieved. Fine Dining Guide will watch his progress with interest.

‘The Lab’, is a brand new event brought to you by the creators of Taste of London and in partnership with AEG. Hosted by TV chef and food writer Gizzi Erskine, The Lab’s kick-off three night flavour experience will launch on 25 April 2013 at Tobacco Docks, London, with a spectacular chef line-up and DJ’s to open and close the night.

Guests will be offered an array of interactive experiences, working with some of the world’s gourmet innovators, including Brazilian top chef Alex Atala whose Sao Paulo restaurant D.O.M, is currently fourth best in the world. Massimo Bottura whose three Michelin star restaurant in Modena Italy is fifth best in the world, will be presenting at The Lab. Lars Williams (Noma’s head of research and development) will host and curate the Noma Flavour Test at The Lab, holding tutorials and masterclasses with surprise collaborations on the night!

Joining the star studded international bill is Dinner by Heston Blumenthal’s Ashley Palmer-Watts, who will present alongside world renowned forager Miles Irving on the live stage, as well as pioneering drinks creator Tony Conigliaro. The AEG Experiment will showcase the creativity and thinking of many of the UK’s top chefs including Bo London’s Alvin Leung, Bubbledog’s James Knappett, Bruno Loubet and Duck & Waffle’s Daniel Doherty.

Other experience features include an intimate ‘audience with’ Research Lounge for insider info, tips and techniques from the professionals. An interactive mixology lab and pour your own beer feature will run alongside the experimental cocktail bar.

The Lab will engage guests through interactive, exclusive and intimate experiences, learning about flavours and enjoying a night out, with dishes and drinks to tantalise your taste buds!

More info and the full line-up will be released closer to the event. Tickets go on-sale on 27 March 2013 at www.thelabevent.co.uk or call 0871 230 7132.

Twitter: @the_taste_lab • Facebook: The Lab