The infographic was produced using data from the Guardian and restaurant websites from across the country. The graphic shows the massive variation available at Michelin Star Restaurants across the UK and Ireland.

Prices range from £15 a head for 2 courses to £180 for 14 courses at the Fat Duck in Maidenhead.

There are over 150 Michelin Star Restaurants in the UK and Ireland, over fifty of which are based in London and surrounding areas. Thirteen pubs have been awarded with Michelin Stars and only four restaurants have the coveted level of three Michelin Stars.

This is reproduced courtesy of ‘Distilled Creative’ and ‘thetrainline.com’ Please note that the prices for Le Gavroche and Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester are inclusive of wine, water and coffee. Please note also a data error with respect to Danesfield House in Marlow which should be listed as an exception as they offer a la carte only at lunch time.

Source: thetrainline.com

Related posts:

1. Michelin Star Restaurants UK Map (2012)
2. Michelin 3 star Restaurants in Europe
3. Michelin GB&I 2012 PR and Star Listing

There are over 150 Michelin Star Restaurants in the UK and Ireland, over fifty of which are based in London and surrounding areas. Thirteen pubs have been awarded with Michelin Stars and only four restaurants have the coveted level of three Michelin Stars.

Related posts:

1. Michelin GB&I 2012 PR and Star Listing
2. Michelin 3 star Restaurants in Europe
3. Michelin Eating out in Pubs 2012 Press Releases

The décor features natural textures and colours, with a heavy emphasis of white and beige. The elegant bar has stools designed by Norman Chermer. The stylish dining room, divided into two sections, is lit by a strikingly attractive row of giant balloon like bulbs designed by Serge Mouille. At one end, a mirrored wall adds to the sense of space and light in what is a fairly narrow room.  Tables, which line the sparsely decorated plain white walls, are well spaced and dressed with fine napery. Comfortable seating is provided by leather banquettes and classic carver chairs in light oak designed by J L Moller. Overall, the simple, clean lines and uncluttered look give a refined, sophisticated feel.

Christoffer Hruskova has a distinguished pedigree that includes experience at Copenhagen’s Michelin-starred restaurant Kong Hans, Tetsuya in Sydney and Jardinière in San Francisco. In a Scandinavian style that has reached the heights of gastronomic credibility, his cooking treats the bounties of earth and sea in a simple yet robust way that maximises natural tastes and flavours. Pickling and smoking, or serving food raw, are favoured techniques, although the technology of modern kitchens is not ignored. All ingredients, including many foraged ones, are sourced from the UK. True to his Danish roots, the chef shuns classic French and Mediterranean produce such as olive oil, olives, tomatoes and bulb garlic.  Flavours, therefore, are not strong, but pure and subtle, allowing the main ingredients to speak for themselves.

Whether choosing from the carte, or opting for the tasting menu, the diner can be assured of sound technique, clarity of flavour and clean presentation. Whilst not cheap –starters average £9.50, main courses £23 and desserts £8 – prices are justified by the quality of ingredients and the skill of cooking.  Moreover, compared with other Michelin starred restaurants in the City and West End, they are extremely competitive.

Fine Dining Guide visited North Road on a weekday evening in May 2012.  The tasting menu (seven courses £67, with wines, £49) was chosen which fully revealed the range of ingredients and cooking techniques employed.

A trio of amuse bouches immediately demonstrated the skill of the kitchen:  pork skin was puffed up to ethereal lightness; Jersey Royals were filled with a flavoursome haddock protein mayonnaise, and pickled quails eggs retained their soft oozing  yolks.

Warm malt and spelt rolls, both with dense textured crumb, were shaped like muffins and served in a miniature rustic sack. The accompanying brown butter had a satisfying nutty flavour reminiscent of beurre noisette.

The first course featured the raw Dorset crab and cockle juice jelly. The preparation technique – immersing the crab in soda water which was then frozen – preserved the wonderful sweetness of the  white meat. The cockle juice jelly, set by its own proteins and encasing coastal herbs, added a savoury but not overpowering note. Decorated with rye crisps and wild garlic flowers, and lifted with apple vinegar, this composition proved to be a taste sensation. The dry Italian white wine, with its citrus and nut flavours, showcased the dish beautifully. (Wine: Verdicchio Dei Castelli de Jesi superiore, San Lorenzo, 2010)

Scottish lumpfish roe was another course served raw. With the distinctive poppy mouth feel of caviar, it worked well with thickened buttermilk which added creaminess, the stronger taste of red onion, the gentle aniseed flavour of dill and the crunch of chicken skin crumble. Here was another harmonious if ususual combination of tastes and textures. The Chenin Blanc, with its bouquet of lush stone fruits, a hint of sweetness and tight mineral finish worked well with dish. (Wine: Montlouis Minerale+ Franz Saumon 2010)

The next seafood course of smoked native Dorset lobster was perfectly timed to retain the delicate succulence of the flesh. The smoke was so gentle that the sweet pure taste of the tail and claw meat shone through. Enveloped in raw wild and cultivated vegetables such as raddish, cauliflower and mustard leaf, this sublime dish simultaneously combined the luxury of the sea with the simplicity of the land. The high acidity and range of citric flavours in the Riesling wine proved to be another good match. (Wine: Riesling Kabinett, Forster Ungeheuer, Dr Von Bassermann-Jordan, German, 2009)

In a season where heavy rainfall has almost devastated the asparagus crop in some regions, we were lucky to have asparagus from the Wye Valley and Kent on the menu. It came in three ways: raw –in slithers – poached and pan fried, all of which captured its distinctive, strong earthy flavour. Wild garlic and truffle added a heady perfume to the dish, whilst salted, soft poached pheasant egg provided a rich sauce. This robust dish needed a richer wine, which the accompanying Sancerre, with its balance of fruit and minerality, provided. (Wine: Sancerre cuvee Maxime Vieilles Vignes, Domainde Delaporte, 2010)

The single meat course showcased Herdwick lamb, sweeter and more fully flavoured than most breeds. The meltingly tender rump had been cooked sous vide in contrast to the sweetbreads which had been pan fried to produce a caramelised crust and a rich, creamy interior. Sea lettuce, sea kale and coastal herbs provided a flourish of nutritious greenery, whilst the whole dish was bought together by a light sauce of burnt cucumber and rape seed oil sauce. The aromatic, soft dry red wine was a splendid accompaniment. (Wine: Barolo, DOCG, Vigneti in Barolo, 2007)

There followed two desserts, perhaps less exciting and accomplished than the savoury courses, but nevertheless intriguing

“Milk, pearl barley and linseed” comprised a velvety smooth milk ice cream, linseed foam, and “sugar puffs” of pearl barley. The last element had not totally worked, being too nutty to eat. The matching wine was sweet with a fair degree of acidity. (Wine: Granjo late harvest, Portugal, 2007)

Yoghurt ice cream and crisp yoghurt meringue combined sour and sweet tastes in perfect balance. Douglas fir pine ice added a lively, clean kick to this  light dessert that finished off the meal perfectly. The sweet wine with tropical fruit aromas had a fresh, dry palate that complemented the dessert well. (Wine; Juracon La Magendia de Lapeyre, Clos Lapeyre, France)

A much needed, generous serving of double espresso and petit fours – which included a fun element of candy floss and exemplary salted caramels – completed this tour de force of a meal

Service was welcoming and solicitous, without being intrusive. With so many multi component dishes, and a variety of cooking techniques, the knowledge of the staff was very impressive indeed. Overseeing the proceedings and selecting the matching wines was a familiar face, recently arrived from Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester. His charm, enthusiasm and sense of humour put us at or ease and helped to make the evening a memorable one.

Clearly, North Road has made an indelible mark on the London dining scene, as confirmed by the award of a Michelin star in the 2012 guide. In an area of strong competition, and given its strengths in the kitchen, it will more than hold its own. We will watch its progress with interest.

Related posts:

1. Tom Aikens, Restaurant Review, London (April 2012)
2. The Savoy River Restaurant, London (February 2012)
3. Medlar Restaurant Review, King’s Road, April 2011.

Chef Luke Thomas

Luke Thomas of Sanctum on the Green is a young man on a mission.  He has completed stages in a cross section of the world’s best kitchens covering numerous countries.  Luke is also an alumni of FutureChef, having won the prestigious competition at the age of fifteen.  Luke found time to speak to Simon Carter of fine dining guide, interview took place in the restaurant of Sanctum on the Green in April 2012.

Tell us some background about yourself?

I was born in a small town in North Wales in 1993.  I started Connah’s Quay High School in 2005 and by that time food was my real interest.  My grandparents were a huge inspiration, we grew our own vegetables at home, and from an early age cooking was all I could think about as a career to do for the rest of my life.

One day a week when doing my GCSEs I went to catering college and also worked at Soughton Hall in North Wales for work experience.  I also spent time working at The Arkle Restaurant at The Chester Grosvenor, which changed to Simon Radley at The Chester Grosvenor.  I attended Yale College Wrexham for NVQ Level 1 & 2 in Professional Catering.

In 2009, at the age of 15, I entered Springboard’s (the catering and hospitality charity) FutureChef (along with 7,500 others). Springboard’s FutureChef helps young people aged 12-16 to learn to cook. It inspires them to explore food and cooking as a life skill by developing their culinary talent and informing them about entry routes into the hospitality industry.  The further you go in the competition the more exposure you get to great chefs.  I won the competition and was mentored by various chefs including Brian Turner.  The process of the competition afforded me the luxury of gaining experience through a number of Stages at world renowned Michelin restaurants.

Upon leaving school I felt that should I one day wish to run a restaurant then I would need to understand more about front of house, back office, finance, sourcing and buying and so on. The Individual Restaurant Company (IRC) is privately owned and owns and operates 34 restaurants in major UK cities, towns and suburbs. I shadowed Iain Donald, who was the commercial director of the business – he had previously worked at The Dorchester and Gleneagles before setting up IRC in 1999.

This was a huge learning experience and I am forever grateful to Iain.  While I was there I learned from further stages at Alinea in Chicago, Gary Rhodes in Dubai and The French Laundry in California amongst others.  So I had some great experiences, not just learning in my career but also broadening my horizons with travel, too.  This was with the help of some generous sponsors and backers, for whom I have also done a lot of private catering, some of which was working on the estate at Sandy Lane in Barbados!

Through various connections – I was doing some work experience at Global Infusion Group, who do large scale catering events, I met up with Mark Fuller and he was very enthusiastic about a hotel/restaurant that he had an interest in, called Sanctum on the Green.  I was ready for the challenge and decided to go for it!

Luke’s Dining Room at Sanctum on the Green opened in March 2012 and touch wood we’ve been very busy!  For the longer term, the great thing about working for Andy Taylor (who is the chairman of the holding company for Concept Venues) and Mark (Fuller) is that you are part of a large international organization of thirteen business.’  This helps with a sense of stability and security for the future and means that I can focus on being the best chef I can be at Sanctum on the Green with fewer external worries.

What was involved in getting the restaurant started?

Not too much.  We’ve done some limited refurbishment, having taken the venue as a canvas and overhauled the kitchen a little, we were pretty much ready to go.  We have a water bath but other than that little in the way of the modern equipment yet (like thermomixers, pacojets and so on.)  We did a soft opening for two weeks after a launch dinner back in March 2012.

What is the menu structure at Luke’s Dining Room?

We have an a la Carte menu which we call a seasonal menu.  We have six starters, six mains and five desserts, which is fairly typical level of choice in restaurants today.  We change the menu around each month.  It very much depends on what the suppliers suggest is strong.  We open for a traditional Sunday lunch, a family style offering that is very popular.

The small team in the kitchen will often come to the table and help with the front of house.  This style helps develop relationships with the customers and gives a homely feel to the restaurant.

What is the size of the brigade front and back and how many covers in the restaurant?

In the restaurant 35 covers and a further ten available in private dining.  Midweek, we’re around 20 covers at the moment and weekends full (forty plus covers).

Front of house, we have a restaurant manager, a bar tender and two waitresses, so four in total.  So at weekends it can get very busy but we’re always calm because we’re comfortable in the way we manage the restaurant – front and back – so services run smoothly. There’s great value add from the chef presenting a dish or two – we cook it and we believe in it, its not like a member of staff memorizing something that’s written on a piece of paper and presenting it to the customer.  As a result we may get member of our chef team being called up and asked for a table by a customer because they appreciated the extra positive, value-added and relationship building experiences they have had at Sanctum on the Green.

What proportion of your guests are hotel guests, and what are locals and destination diners?

Four-fifths of the battle is that we’re becoming accepted by the locals and returning local customers are starting to be the norm.  We also have around 70% of the people who stay in the hotel eat in the hotel and some are destination diners who have read about us in the media.

We had a wedding here the other day and one of guests said “it’s almost like a traditional pub” and that’s great.  From the front it looks like the traditional pub, indeed the site was originally the old Hare & Hounds pub at Cookham Dean. From the back the site looks like a hotel with a restaurant, with formal gates, a swimming pool and a terrace and so on.  Getting the balance right is something we’re achieving which is helping us develop in the right direction as a venue.

How would you describe your customer philosophy?

The customer is king!  I had had something of a different mentality drilled into me, especially when working stages in Michelin starred restaurants – If a customer wanted, say, chips with their veal there would be resistance from the kitchen – the menu was the menu.  Now instead I try to think differently and accommodate the customer:  If someone, for example, wants a burger they should have it, we would make one from an excellent cut of beef.  We would want to give them what they want but try to make it the best it can be!

Which chefs have inspired you the most?

I grew up with Jamie Oliver and the Naked Chef.  He would almost ignore a recipe – throw in a hand full of this and add a little of that – he encouraged people to cook from the heart instead of a piece of paper.  It must have inspired a generation of young chefs as it said “this isn’t difficult, so long as it tastes good and you enjoy yourself cooking!”

Heston Blumenthal is a chef’s chef – his uniqueness, individuality, creativity and search for perfection are all inspiring in equal measure.

Where would you like to eat out if you had the chance?

In the UK, I hear great things about The Square and would love to try Phil Howard’s cooking.  I loved The Ledbury and that was probably my favourite meal in the UK.

What are your plans for the future?

Sanctum on the Green for the foreseeable future.  The product we’re delivering is now consistent and my job will be to break that down and continually look at how it can be taken to the next level!

Related posts:

1. Chef Interview: Matt Gillan (April 2012)
2. Chef Interview: Alyn Williams (January 2012)
3. Chef Interview: Chris Staines (August 2004)

Mallory Court Hotel, Warwickshire

Mallory Court has long earned the reputation for being one of the leading hotels in the Midlands. Located in the heart of England, between Royal Leamington Spa and Bishop’s Tatchbrook, with easy access to the M40, it has been a member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux Association since 1983. It currently holds three AA stars for accommodation and has been recommended by the Conde Nast Johansens guide for 25 years. The Dining Room has always scored highly in the restaurant guides and recently celebrated holding a Michelin star for eleven consecutive years.

Under the ownership of Sir Peter Rigby who purchased the hotel in 1995, Mallory Court became the first of seven luxury hotels in the Eden House Collection. The following years have seen renovation and expansion, neither of which has been excessive, thereby preserving its medium size and unique country house character.

Thus, continuity and change have featured in the history of Mallory Court between my first visit for lunch in October, 1986, (when Jeremy Mort and Alan Holland were the proprietors), and my recent overnight stay in April 2012.

The main house dates from 1916. Designed by P Morley Horder, in a style popularised by Sir Edwin Lutyens, it typifies the Arts and Crafts design and remains very much as originally built. This ivy clad two storey building, enhanced by gables, stone dressing and mullioned windows, presents an attractive neo Elizabethan façade to the visitor.

From only ten rooms, the East Wing which opened in 1998 doubled the available accommodation. Six years later saw the opening of the Knights Suite, a separate building offering conference and banqueting facilities with more rooms on the first floor. Both additions are designed in sympathy with the main house; indeed it is hardly noticeable that the East Wing, connected to the main house by a glass corridor, is not part of the original set of buildings. The Knights Suite is clearly newer but in the same architectural idiom. The effect of weathering over the years will gradually cause its bright sandstone colour to match the darker shade of the main house. Being set apart, the corporate, large scale nature of its activities is prevented from intruding on the more peaceful atmosphere and personal service offered in the main house.

The small reception and bar area in the main house allow attention to focus on main public rooms. These epitomise the essence of country house elegance and luxury. An open plan lounge and well proportioned drawing room, complete with inglenook fireplaces and exquisite settees, chesterfields and armchairs, offer comfortable areas in which to relax. The conservatory style Garden Room provides a brighter, more airy alternative. Throughout, the décor and quality of materials and fabrics, combining traditional and modern designs, are of very high standards.

Set in ten acres of grounds, the hotel has carefully tended gardens and immaculate lawns – perfect for a game of croquet. The spacious and well protected terrace, ideal for al fresco drinking and dining, commands delightful views of the ornamental water garden. Guests can also explore the rose and organic kitchen gardens. Here, what looked like a maze I later learned was privet hedging to keep out the rabbits.

With 31 rooms, Mallory is of an ideal size: small enough to maintain high standards of service, large enough to allow for guests to choose from a range of six room types, from master suites to double bedrooms. Whilst the eleven rooms in the modern Knights Suite have a more contemporary feel consistent with the rest of the building, the décor and furnishings of the original and east wing rooms retain a more classical, elegant design.

I stayed in Linton, a spacious master bedroom in the East Wing with fine views over the garden. Decorated in shades of tan, with feature striped wallpaper in the bed alcove, and a mixture of wall and table lighting, the room combined both traditional and modern features. Comfortable seating, stylish furniture and sumptuous fabrics added to the lavishness of the surroundings. Attention to detail was seen in small touches such as the shoe horn in the wardrobe, the music centre with a choice of CDs, bottled water, and chocolates, fruit and biscuits on arrival.

Amenities were first class. The large art deco bathroom, fully tiled in marble with large double sinks was a joy to use. The spacious walk in shower was a welcome, modern addition. Fluffy towelling robes, slippers – so often not provided elsewhere – and designer toiletries added luxurious elements. A welcome feature was the separate toilet (also in tiled in art deco style), a highly underrated but often essential facility!

The maintenance and furtherance of such consistently high standards of accommodation and service are the responsibility of the General Manager, Sarah Baker, whose career at Mallory Court began in 1989. In her longevity of dedicated service, her calm, warm personality and mature outlook, she embodies those qualities so valued in the hospitality industry. Her vision for Mallory is one of synergy, of greater presence within Eden House group. Whilst each hotel retains its unique identity, much can be shared to the benefit of all. She admits also that a spa would be a welcome addition to the hotel’s facilities.

On an operational basis, her management style is hands on, leading by example with attention to detail in every aspect of hotel life. She admits the management of 85 staff from diverse backgrounds can be demanding but it is also rewarding. Loyal, hard working staff means happy, contented guests, which is the primary raison d’etre of the hotel. Sarah is proud of her staff retention rates and is keen to promote from within.

Certainly, during my brief stay, the effectiveness of Sarah’s consummate professionalism was much in evidence. Checking in was friendly and welcoming; service at dinner and breakfast was exemplary in its pace, courtesy and in accommodating one’s needs; and a tour of the hotel, given my Natalie, was thorough and informative. The general impression is of seamless, high quality service, offered with grace and good humour.

Clearly, Mallory Court is a hotel of which any manager can be proud. The Relais and Chateaux philosophy of five Cs – courtesy, charm, character, calm and cuisine – has been successfully realised. Much of this success is down to a team effort, one inspired by strong leadership. Under Sarah Baker’s guidance, it continues to go from strength to strength, confirming its leading place in the competitive market of luxury country house hotels.

Related posts:

1. Dining Room, Mallory Court, Restaurant Review, (April 2012)
2. Danesfield House Hotel Review (April 2011)
3. Chewton Glen, Hotel Review. April 2010

Mallory Court Hotel, Warwickshire

My first visit to Mallory Court was for a Saturday lunch, way back in October 1986. Simon Carter and I chose a range of classical and nouvelle dishes, enjoying a terrine of warm sole and salmon with langoustine tails, a rendevous of seafood, chicken with wild mushrooms and Madeira, blackcurrant delice and a trio of sorbets. The charming Jeremy Mort was front of house whilst co owner and head chef Alan Holland produced the highly acclaimed cuisine.

I wrote in my report of the “memorable and civilised gastronomic experience…mastery in the kitchen…impeccable service.” These features are much in evidence today, some 26 years later, during which time there have been changes of ownership, management, chefs and cooking styles. Now, as then, Mallory Court is rated highly in the restaurant guides, remains a member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux Association and continues to be the proud possessor of a Michelin star. Equally important, the food served in the Dining Room continues to be in perfect harmony with the elegant and sophisticated surroundings of the hotel itself.

Overseeing the kitchen is Simon Haigh, who became head chef in December 2001. He won a Michelin star in 2003, which he has since retained. His new position as Executive Chef for the whole Eden Hotel Collection utilises to the full his creative talents and extensive experience. This includes spells at Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons, Inverlochy Castle (1993-2001) where he won his first Michelin star, and Seaham Hall, where he gained three AA rosettes within a year.

Simon Haigh, Executive Chef.

I met Simon and current head chef Andrew Scott, with whom he has worked for ten years. They share the same consistent approaches towards management, sourcing of produce and menu construction

A more collaborative approach is preferred to the seemingly outdated confrontational kitchen management style: Positive results are achieved through the involvement of all – for instance in the tasting of new dishes – working as a team, with a sense of camaraderie:  a “band of brothers” as Andrew put it. This was also beneficial for staff retention, the average stay for the brigade of eight being above average at four to five years, with others returning after stints elsewhere.

Maximising the use of local and seasonal ingredients is an essential prerequisite for their range of menus. For instance beef, including the renown Dexter breed, comes from three small Warwickshire farms. Much of the fruit, vegetables and herbs come from the hotel’s extensive organic kitchen garden, about which Simon has developed a passionate interest. He regretted the rain had almost destroyed this year’s crop of asparagus, hence its absence from the menu. However, he enthused about the peaches, apricots, mirabelles and figs – amongst an abundance of other home grown fruit and vegetables – which flourish in the south facing gardens. The vegetable and herb areas, I was told, are protected by privet hedging and netting from the voracious rabbit population.

They both agreed that adapting the cuisine to suit the traditional, country house environment and differing types of clientele is important. Being both a destination restaurant, and one with regular local diners, meeting the expectations of both was crucial. One way was through a choice of menus. The seasonal carte, with six options in each course, (£59.50 including coffee and petit fours) showcases both classical and more contemporary dishes, the main courses of which might be changed daily. The daily dinner menu (£45) has a more limited choice while the six course tasting menu (£79 – with a flight of wines £130) is ideal for those who like surprises and wish to see the range of the kitchen’s expertise.

As befitting the modern setting of the conference and banqueting Knight’s Suite, the Brasserie has a more informal, contemporary menu, ranging from Caesar salad to braised ox cheek.

As might be expected from his impressive CV, the cooking style of Simon Haigh showcases and refines classical techniques. Shellfish bisque, foie gras terrine, breast of duck with its confit and beef fillet all feature on the carte. Modern elements and techniques add interest, as in “Coronation crab,” shallot textures, hot rice pudding soufflé, and deconstructed lemon meringue pie. Dishes are multi component, but not at the expense of the main ingredient, so he is careful not to gild the lily. Tastes are distinct and saucing, a particular strength, enhances rather than overwhelms. Combinations of flavours and textures are harmonious if unusual and unexpected. Timing is well judged, and presentation is artistic with clean lines.

Our dinner was taken in the long, oak panelled dining room, the crowning glory of the hotel. With only one window at the far end, wall lights and table candles illuminate the round, well spaced tables. Supremely comfortable carver chairs, fine napery and tapestry carpeting add to the sense of formal luxury. Whilst jacket and tie are not obligatory, as they were in 1986, the smart dress code was observed by all diners.

Given the embarrassment of choice, time was taken over champagne and canapés in the lounge to study the three menus. Whilst tasting menus are always attractive, we decided to choose from the seasonal carte.

Of the breads offered, focaccia was outstanding with its moist crumb and herby flavour.

An amuse bouche saw a seared scallop, perfectly timed to produce a caramelised crust and soft, succulent flesh. Curried lentils with a lemon grass and ginger foam provided a bold foil to the beautifully sweet bivalve.

The first starter featured a well seasoned ballotine of rabbit, gently poached to preserve its delicate gamey flavour. Slices and puree of baby carrot were lifted by a sweet and sour dressing. Brown beech mushrooms added textural interest whilst a velvety smooth, gently flavoured violent mustard ice cream, perched on dried crunchy grains, lifted this simple dish to lofty Michelin heights.

In another first course, the creamy, delicate quality of spiced foie gras was enhanced by a thin coating of gingerbread crumbs. Poached rhubarb cut the richness of this delectable piece of liver, whilst smoked duck and granola added contrasting flavour and texture.

Main courses were equally accomplished.

A thick fillet of utterly fresh pan fried red mullet had firm, yet translucent texture. Its robust flavour stood up to the strong tasting and well executed crab risotto and intense bisque sauce, roasted fennel added a muted aniseed flavour which complemented the other elements well.

Fine meat cookery was shown in a dish of Dexter beef. This rare breed, small in size but big on flavour, came in two forms: a medium rare fillet and unctuous, melting slow cooked shin. Potato mousseline, fresh morels, with their deeply earthy flavour, and shallot textures – tempura rings, whole and shredded caramelised – proved admirable accompaniments, whilst the whole dish was bought together by a deeply flavoured Madeira sauce.

Desserts show, possibly, the greatest imagination and creativity: Indeed a certain playfulness in evidence.

A deconstructed lemon meringue pie was, unlike many other modern versions, still recognisable as such. A rectangle of the thick, lemon curd pie was dressed with shards of crisp meringue and garnished with soft meringue peaks. A quenelle of pine nut ice cream, resting on crushed pine nuts and pine nut butter served transformed this essentially simple dessert into a highly complex and impressive one.

Another composite dessert centred on a lightly textured warm peanut cake. Richness was added by chocolate textures of soft milk chocolate mousse and firm discs of dark chocolate ganache. Salted caramel and bananas complete this indulgent confection.

Of the delightful petit fours served with coffee, the fruit jellies, macaroons and chocolates were particularly well made.

Overall, this was a first rate meal accompanied by equally good service that was well informed, solicitous but unobtrusive. Overseen by the charming Dominique, the restaurant manager who also recommended wines by the glass, the evening proceeded seamlessly to a most satisfying conclusion.

Related posts:

1. The Capital Dining Room, Restaurant Review, July 2010
2. Rogan & Company, Restaurant Review, Cartmel (April 2012)
3. Tom Aikens, Restaurant Review, London (April 2012)

Pennyhill Park Hotel of Exclusive Hotels Group

Danny Pecorelli is Managing Director (and Owner) of the Exclusive Hotels Group, which currently comprises four luxury hotels: Pennyhill Park, Bagshot, Surrey (pictured): South Lodge Hotel, near Horsham, Sussex: Manor House Hotel, Castle Combe, Wiltshire:  Lainston House Hotel, Winchester.  Employing over 700 staff in a £45m turnover business, Danny found time in his exhausting schedule to speak to Simon Carter of fine-dining-guide.  Interview took place on 6th April 2012 at The Pass Restaurant, South Lodge Hotel, near Horsham.

Danny Pecorelli, Owner, Exclusive Hotels Group

Tell us some background about yourself?

I am more hotel trained than restaurant trained, although my first role was working in the kitchen at The Savoy Grill under Alan Hill who, at the time, was a Michelin star striving chef.  He (Alan) is now F&B Director at Gleneagles.

With the privately owned family business of Exclusive Hotel Group, my ultimate destiny was pretty much fixed so I had in mind a kind of four year training programme; to take in as much industry knowledge as possible.  At Four Seasons Group I worked Front of House, Estates, Marketing and HR (which included guest profiling).  I then worked for The Sheraton Hotel Group in Washington DC, who twenty plus years ago, were probably the most innovative marketeers in the business.

For the last twenty years, I worked my way up through the Exclusive Hotels Group business; starting at Mannings Heath Golf Club (here) at the South Lodge Hotel, before spending five years running this hotel (South Lodge).  The last ten years I have been responsible for the Group.

Tell us more about the Exclusive Hotels Group.

We have four hotels in the privately owned Exclusive Hotels Group “brand”.  They are Manor House Hotel in Castle Combe, Pennyhill Park in Bagshot, South Lodge Nr Horsham and Lainston House Hotel in Winchester.  These are beautiful listed buildings in large grounds.

“Brand” is in inverted commas as we like to demonstrate the uniqueness of each property right down to each room.  There will remain a thread to the group offering with common objectives (like an expectation of a certain level of food and beverage offering), common qualities (like delivering a certain specified standard throughout) and common strategy (to deliver “wow customer experiences”).  The difficulty with ‘brand’ and the hotel industry is that for many people it conjures up an image of homogenized corporate offerings and that is exactly what we don’t want to achieve.

I’m delighted that we’ve grown this business every year, even in tough economic times and think that has been, at this luxury end of the market, due to providing the ‘unique’, the ‘non-formulaic’, the ‘non-homogenized’ offerings that customers at this level are seeking out.  Rather than being policeman of a brand, which in effect is a product with a life cycle, we look to bring out the evolving personality and heart of each property.

We have a framework rather than a weighty brand and/or policy manual: An example of framework would be to establish a British restaurant that aims for a certain level of attainment in an English country house hotel; we’re never going to run a Thai restaurant in the English countryside.  If you want to be Nahm, that’s great but that works in London.  The chef in one of our restaurants won’t be handcuffed by any policy or brand manual and will have the freedom to express his/her personality to the best of their ability.  For the last six or seven years we’ve set a strategy to deliver food and beverage that acts as a destination in its own right.  The food is like a heartbeat of the properties and as such we aspire to make the best possible offerings we can within the framework.

How would you describe your roles and responsibilities?

I run the group.  I am officially the Managing Director.  The group has very limited umbrella functions like business development, marketing, HR and accounts.  The focus of resourcing is on each property, which comes back to the ‘anti-brand’ idea of bringing out the best in each property – it’s individuality, it’s personality and the heartbeat and not getting stifled with ‘corporate’ style functions.

For example, coming back to the framework: There would be a standard type of employment contract across the group that requires one head in an umbrella function but day to day HR would be run in-house in each property.  This may not appear the most cost effective way to run the business but in reality we (Exclusive Hotels) gain far more through the overall objectives of how you want the properties to work.

How would you define the Exclusive Hotels Group mission statement and strategy?

The mission statement is really simple: To create wow experiences!  It’s an old saying but it’s true; your completely satisfied customers are your best marketeers.  We do some marketing and PR but the spend is so much less than competitors simply because we have that every day mantra.

If you relentlessly focus on the basics of doing the simple things right and consistently right (not getting lost on over-complicated tangents) then with the right people, everything falls into place.

We don’t chase accolades such as red stars or Michelin stars but gratefully receive them when deriving from a strategy that involves a consistent level of quality delivery in our offerings.  Exclusive Hotels certainly doesn’t aim to be the biggest but we do aim to be the best.

There perhaps comes a tipping point in terms of size where the strategy would not work as you lose the personal touch; the uniqueness, personality and heartbeat of each property – the homogenous corporate feel becoming a necessity of very large scale operations.  Instead we aim to hit the balance of economies of scale and uniqueness of operation; being the best each property can be within the context of the frameworks described.

What is your philosophy of people management?

That is a very good question in this industry.  The hospitality trade is about people – people delivering to people – and happy, high quality staff that are retained will make the difference to your business.  In that regard managers have a significant part of their bonus based on internal staff surveys and staff retention.  As a business we talk as much about the internal customer as the external one – there is often a correlation between the strongest performing property and the best internal staff survey.

There’s an old saying from an American Express advert where a businessman says “great service isn’t a mystery, employ nice people”.  The art to me is get that fundamentally right then being consistent will follow: Skills can be taught and moulded but attitude is pretty much in-built.

Tell us about Exclusive Hotel Management (EHM)

This is a separate business.  We consult on a number of properties and run two for private interests.  The activity really helps The Hotel Group as it encourages an input of ideas from outside the box of what we are doing on a day to day basis and as such helps feed into the positive growth of the Group.

Tells us your views of the Social Networking phenomena?

There are two levels, a personal level and a professional level.  On a personal level you get a 360 degree view of something – a fully holistic, rounded perspective.  You can see what a company is thinking, what the employees are thinking and what the customers are thinking – this is very healthy.

You can engage as much as you want – to be interactive or just to take it as information.

A byproduct is that consumers have become much more wise, with access to peer to peer information that they feel they can trust over and above a corporate message (website).  All the independent bloggers, websites, twitter(ers) that are reviewing hotels and restaurants have rightly made a name for themselves as they offer an independent, extra piece in the jigsaw of making informed consumer choices.

We have one group marketing person who is purely dedicated to social media.  People are aware that is the official hotel feed as it has all the offers and so on.  If you look at Matt (Gillan) for example (the Michelin starred chef at The South Lodge, Pass restaurant) he has more followers by some distance than the hotel!  This all feeds into the awareness of the group, becoming a beneficiary of the social networking media channel.

How do you see the general market for dining developing outside London?

It is fiercely competitive. Customers are more aware of what is great experience, however there are more than enough who are prepared to pay for the right kind of experience: Those that do it will well, will continue to thrive and prosper.

In terms of trends, people are eating out more and people look for more value for what they are paying.  People want the full rounded experience; twenty-five years ago you might have been thrown out of a Michelin restaurant for ordering a gin and tonic whereas today you would look to service the customer in every respect.  Accessibility and informality are trends, too.

What is your proudest professional achievement?

Every time someone recognizes and gives a pat on the back to the team is a proud moment.  Particularly the awards that come out of the blue and genuinely surprise and please.

Describe a day in the life…

No two days are the same.  The complete variety of work is of paramount importance to me.  There’s so much going on in a business like this – 700 people and a £45m turnover.  You’re always juggling so many balls in the air, take one out check it’s working and slot it back in: Shaping the future, managing the brand, managing the cross-sell and expectation setting and management.  I’m certainly comfortable in employing talented people with the right expertise and delegating.  Without that every day would be very long indeed…

What are your plans for the future?

Careful expansion while maintaining quality: If I hand over this family business to the next generation and we have six Exclusive Hotels and five Michelin stars: If the Group is making money and everyone is still doing what they should be doing then I will have done a good job!

Related posts:

1. Chef Interview: Matt Gillan (April 2012)
2. Chewton Glen, Hotel Review. April 2010
3. Tom Aikens, Restaurant Review, London (April 2012)

Opened in 2007, and occupying a central location in the village, Rogan and Company is housed in an attractive grey stoned house with origins in the 16^th century. Despite its low, oak beamed ceilings, the restaurant is light and airy, with wide front windows, glass partitions and large mirrors giving a greater sense of space. Decorated in pastel shades with wooden floors and  clever spot lighting, the room has a fresh, contemporary feel.

Up till the start of 2012, Rogan and Company was noted for serving high quality bistro food. It has recently changed to a “restaurant only” concept, reviving the style of dishes offered in the early days of L’Enclume. Dishes such as salt baked kohlrabi with ruby chard and roasted buckwheat and cheese sauce or goat’s milk curd with rocket, beetroot and radish testify to this. Vegetables and herbs are given almost equal weight with meat and fish on starters and main courses.

That more people can experience the inimitable style of Simon Rogan’s cuisine, at more affordable prices, can only be a welcome development. With the same carte being offered for lunch and dinner, a three course meal, with six choices of starters, mains and puddings, can be enjoyed for £30-£35, (although there is a cheaper set price lunch menu.) The wine list is also an attractive prospect with affordable prices not in excess of £30.

In the kitchen, Chef Louie Lawrence, previously sous chef at L’Enclume, leads a team which treats top quality farmed and foraged ingredients with care, sensitivity and real flair. Precision in timing, balance of tastes, textures and colours, and elegant presentation are much in evidence.

Two well made breads were offered.  Pumpernickel, with its mild rye taste and dark colour, was particularly good in texture and flavour.

An amuse bouche of grilled asparagus preserved the intense flavour of this vitamin rich spring vegetable. Bacon hollandaise and crisp pancetta added a creamy smokiness which complemented it well.

A starter of soused mackerel was gently marinated, giving a light, bright taste to the dazzlingly fresh fish. The pickled vegetable garnish, which included red carrot, was offset by a sauce of mustard and dill, which added warming spice and aniseed herb flavours. These balanced the dish beautifully.

In contrast, another starter featured confit Goosnargh duck. The soft, melting flesh, paired with Jerusalem artichoke in soft and crisp forms, was lifted by a highly reduced sauce of and tarragon and mulled cider.

A main course described as poached chicken understated the complexity of the cooking which involved wrapping the flesh around a garlic mousse. The result was moist, delicate and gently aromatic. Enoki mushrooms, spinach and celeriac proved highly suitable garnishes whilst the whole dish was brought together by an intense, well flavoured jus. This was as exemplary dish with clear flavours and clean presentation.

Even more accomplished was a main course of wild Brill which was a veritable tour de force of fish cookery. The luscious, white flesh was perfectly timed to preserve its soft texture and delicate flavour. The fish was partnered with lobster dumplings, two crescent shaped ravioli with wafer thin fresh pasta encasing the beautifully sweet and succulent flesh of the crustacean. A light lobster cream added richness and crisp deep fried leeks gave texture and height to the dish. Visually, as with the other dishes, the presentation was stunning.

Desserts were less complex but equally well crafted.

Poached rhubarb, soft and sweet, was a riot of pink. Buttermilk custard and lemon was an excellent foil, giving balance with a hint of acidity.

Spiced pineapple tart saw a finger the confit fruit paired with coconut ice cream. Whilst the puff pastry lacked the richness normally associated with this variety, the ice cream was well flavoured, velvety smooth and of the correct consistency.

Service was cheerful, solicitous and knowledgeable.

Overall, judging by the meal we had, the new approach to reviving early L’Enclume style dishes is likely to be an unqualified success. But Rogan and Company should not be seen as a mere adjunct to its more distinguished sister restaurant a hundred yards around the corner. Here is a restaurant that is succeeding it its own right, popular with locals and those from further afield. The addition of rooms on the first floor, still to be completed at the time of writing, is likely to add to its attraction.

Related posts:

1. Tom Aikens, Restaurant Review, London (April 2012)
2. Simon Rogan and L’Enclume Review, March 2011
3. Orrery Restaurant Review, April 2011 by Daniel Darwood

Matt Gillan (literally) at The Pass at The South Lodge Hotel

Matt Gillan has spent some serious time in serious kitchens – working for several years for Daniel Clifford at Midsummer House before spending time in the kitchen of John Campbell at The Vineyard at Stockcross.  Now recognized by the guides in his own right at The Pass at South Lodge Hotel, near Horsham, Matt cuts a relaxed, cheerful but determined figure as he chats to Simon Carter of fine-dining-guide.  Interview took place on Thursday 5th April 2012, at The Pass restaurant.

Tell us some background about yourself?

I grew up in Hampshire in a little army town called Bordon, just outside of Petersfield.  My first experience of food was by accident – or financial sense – I was 14/15 years old and doing the typical kind of job you do at that age;  a paper round, which was outdoors through wind, rain and snow.  In around 1996, A friend of mine was working washing up in a pub restaurant (The Hen and Chicken on the A31) and I discovered that he was earning more in one shift than I earned all week doing the paper round!

So I got shifts there washing up on Saturday night and Sunday lunch before being told that if I found a replacement for my job then I’d have the opportunity to prep the vegetables.  So I drafted my brother in and started working in the kitchen.  The pub would do 150 covers in a typical weekend lunch time.  As more shifts came up I took them and eventually found myself there almost every shift all the way through my summer holidays.

At school my focus was on art and design and if I weren’t doing cooking for a living now, I’d expect to be in front of a drawing board doing some kind of graphic design role.  I think the creative element of taking a raw product and turning it in to something different was what drew me to the chef profession.

In 1998 I followed Nick Wentworth (the head chef) to a restaurant called Hunters in Alresford, outside Winchester.  I stayed there six months before moving to Cambridge – my girlfriend at the time was at University in Cambridge so it seemed like a good idea!  I looked in the back of Caterer and found an advert for Midsummer House.  Daniel Clifford had been there around 6 months – it was a two AA Rosette restaurant at the time and in the process of a complete refurbishment.   I had about a fifteen minutes interview and went back a couple of weeks later for a trial, and got the job.  I was there three and a half years and it was a real journey, a culture shock!  Daniel had adopted the French mentality to discipline and I found it very tough at the beginning but grew into the role and left as junior sous chef.  Daniel (Clifford) continues to be a good friend and mentor.

I spent a short time at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay after Midsummer House.  I had always dreamt of working in that kitchen after watching the Boiling Point programme on TV in 1998.  I was in awe of Gordon Ramsay.  As a result the interview was quite nerve wracking but I got the job.  I stayed for nine months but found that at the three star level the day in day out tasks were too repetitive and there was no culture of questioning “why are we doing this?” which I had found so educational at Midsummer House.

In 2004, I spent a year working for John Campbell at The Vineyard at Stockcross.  I had explained in advance that I wanted to go travelling and that the most I could commit to was a year (John usually required around a two years plus commitment).  I loved that kitchen.  No only did I learn about cooking and the science behind it but also kitchen management:  No shouting – firm – but nurturing.  If you wanted to listen then he had plenty of time for you (if you didn’t want to listen then you were in the wrong kitchen) and it was always conversations rather than one way talking about what you could do better.  I think I only heard him raise his voice once in a year.  A great role model and an approach I try to follow in my kitchen.

In 2005, I went travelling to Australia and after spending a month soaking up the sun on Bondi Beach decided to move to Melbourne and find a short term cooking job.  Shannon Bennett at Vue de Monde took me in and I had a great time working at his restaurant.

When I came back I was looking for a sous chef role.  I wanted to learn how the management side of a kitchen worked, so I was looking for a low key two rosette property.  The agency said that a three rosette address had a vacancy and that I should apply.  I came down to South Lodge and have been here ever since.  In 2008 the extension was completed and I moved from the Camelia restaurant (in the hotel) to head up The Pass (in the hotel).  The brand new kitchen is big and airy and really a beautiful space.

What are your opening times and explain the menu concept?

We’re open Wednesday through Sunday, lunch and dinner and we offer exclusively tasting menus.  There are effectively 11 chef’s tables – 22 covers – who all have the concept of being inside the kitchen eating the chef’s menu.

There are three course, five course and seven course for lunch.  Dinner is a six or eight course.  We are looking at adding a new menu of around twelve courses for the serious foodies.

I’m always conscious of pricing and we aim to keep the prices down as much as possible so that we’re not bracketed in that ‘elite restaurant’ category and have the possibility of pricing ourselves out of the market.

How would you describe your cuisine?

Well I was talking about this with a few of my peers and we’ve coined this phrase ‘Progressive British.’  Modern British didn’t really reflect what we do and perhaps has the ring of 1980s Good Food Guide about it or even, nowadays, funky fish and chips.

We are British chefs using a lot of British produce but we don’t inherit dishes directly from France nor from traditional British dishes.  In fact influences come from all around the world.  All these cultures have their different styles and we try and use all the modern technology and techniques (water baths, dehydrators, pressure cookers, thermo mixers etc) to take the best of what these other cultures have to offer and present them in a new way.

How do you source your ingredients?

This has been really refined over the last three years.  We used to have a bulk buy butcher.  We have specialist suppliers such as a quail egg supplier, a pig farmer for pork and so on.  Quality is paramount at this level so we won’t compromise and ensure consistency of product and consistency of delivery.  The specialist suppliers have definitely raised the bar on quality.

Tell us how you created one of your favourite dishes?

A lamb dish started with belly of lamb.  As a hotel kitchen there’s quite a lot going on, I was walking past the butchers block one day and they were prepping the saddles and leaving the bellies.  I decided to take the bellies and slow cook them, leaving the fat in the fridge.

The lamb fat gnocchi garnish came about from thinking about gnocchi – essentially Italian potato dumplings – then taking the British idea of dumplings, which is suet and self raising flour, then playing around with replacing the suet and self raising flour with pure lamb belly fat and potato flour.  The first ones came out like Chinese dumplings so we added the egg white to lighten them up.

Lamb with Lamb Fat Gnocchi and Lemon Curd

The addition of lemon curd to the dish was derived from thinking of a sweet and sharp element to go with the fatty gnocchi and the lamb and I feel the end result works really well.  An interesting dish that I’m really proud of the recipe.  I certainly haven’t seen a recipe anywhere for the lamb fat gnocchi.

What is the size of the brigade front and back?

There are five of us in the kitchen and three out front for twenty two covers.  We tend to look at it as the number of plates of food as opposed to covers.  Simply because we exclusively offer tasting menus.

Which chefs have influenced you in your cooking?

Directly, Daniel Clifford and John Campbell but equally had I not worked for Nick Wentworth I wouldn’t be cooking now – he showed me that if you’re going to spend 15,16, 17 hours a day in the kitchen then you need to do it smiling.  When we first opened here it was really stressful and we felt a pressure to get a Michelin Star.  I found I wasn’t so excited about cooking and coming in to work every day.  Then I pulled back and decided to relax and just express myself and we actually got much better.  A little bit of personality and individuality came through and possibly that’s what the guides look for as much as anything else

Which restaurants inspire when you eat out?

I think its probably those that travel ‘off piste’ a little and challenge you to think about “how did they do that?”  I had a brilliant meal at Sat Bains and was really impressed.  I would like to go to L’Enclume.  So it’s meals where I might learn something that really get me excited.

What is your proudest professional achievement?

I don’t want to say getting the Michelin Star but I can’t say anything else.  It was amazing!  As a goal that you have in the back of your mind, the day that it comes can actually be quite emotional.  The guide came out at 12pm – just as service is about to start – Daniel Clifford was the first to tweet the news.

I had 22 ladies in for lunch that day and was teaching a full-proof way to make risotto, I couldn’t even remember how to do it, it was so emotional.

Describe a day in the life…

Every day is different.  Typically, first thing, we check the orders and the invoices.  On Wednesday’s garnish may need some help in steering the ship, on Thursday it’s more meat, fish and sauce….but generally, in the kitchen is a day in the life!

Related posts:

1. Chef Interview: Alyn Williams (January 2012)
2. Chef Interview: Antonin Bonnet (April 2010)
3. Chef Interview: Chris Staines (August 2004)

By contrast, and in line with his “New Vision for 2012,” Tom Aikens is amongst an increasing number of leading chefs who aim give diners a more relaxed, informal but stylish setting. Not that expense has been spared in the refurbishment of his eponymous restaurant in Chelsea, which reopened in January. Bare concrete walls, oak floorboards, mismatched bare tables and customised chairs give the dining room a dark, rustic tone; expensive but far removed from typical Michelin extravagance. This same simplicity extends to stoneware, slates and wooden boards on which many of the dishes are served. Additional unconventional features include the canvas wall with culinary quotations and space enhancing mirrors rotating on iron rods. Menus in envelopes, wine lists pasted in hardback books and petit fours served in old biscuit tins add to the novelty of the service. Perhaps the most controversial feature is the informal designer uniform – open neck shirt, tie and jeans – of the junior waiting staff.

All this change might divide opinion amongst the dedicated following Tom Aikens has attracted over his distinguished career. One thing they will all agree on, however, is the renewed vigour of his cuisine. It would seem that time during the six month’s closure was well spent in refining his cooking techniques, moderating – although not markedly so – the complexity of dishes, and developing new flavour combinations.

Sophistication of composition, clarity of taste, balance of texture and beauty in presentation continue to delight.

The menu comprises a carte of 20 savoury dishes and eight desserts. At £50 for three courses and £55 for the six and £75 for the eight course tasting menus, prices are competitive with restaurants of similar quality and, given the quality of ingredients and labour intensity and quality of the cooking, better value for money than most.

Fine Dining Guide visited on a weekday evening in March, enjoying a tasting menu with wines which utterly exceeded our high expectations.

An amuse bouche of duck cassonade with mushroom foam flecked with black truffles was at once rich, light and fragrant

A selection of canapés highlighted the enormous attention to detail lavished on these delectable morsels. Particularly impressive were the eel roulade with its gentle smokiness and creamy texture and tangy goat’s curd sandwiched between layers of crisp grated beetroot.

Breads, presented in a miniature sack, contained the outstanding bacon brioche – crisp, sweet, soft and crumbly. Equally accomplished were cep and buttermilk rolls.

Hand dived scallops, marinated with apple vinegar but retaining their inherent sweetness, contrasted with salty lardo crudo and bland tapioca. The composition was lifted by acidulated apple tarragon granite. The balance of tastes, textures and temperatures, enabling each element to retain its distinct identity, was astounding. (Wine Saint Mont Plaimont SW France, 2009)

The next dish proved high innovative. Pigeon breast, timed to a medium rare to retain its intense flavour, was served with truffle custard, foie gras, chocolate and mushroom puree and an array of green and red vegetable granules. Arranged on a dish to look like an artist’s palette, a delicate, pristinely clear pigeon consommé was poured over. The overall taste sensation  – gamey, fresh and vibrant – was exciting and memorable.  (Wine: Zinfandel Foxglove Paso Robles 2009)

A tranche of roasted foie gras was precisely rendered with a seared crust and soft melting creamy interior. Thyme sabayon added a herby lift whilst blackened spring onion added a bitterness which balanced the caramelised onion garnish.  (Wine: Pais de Quenehuao, Chile, 2009)

Soft textured, gently smoked Venison Tartar was well seasoned and spiked with juniper. It benefited also from the addition of grated walnuts, wild sorrel and hazelnut puree. Melba toast added crispness and provided an attractive garnish. (Wine: Bourgogne Roucevie Domaine Arlaud 2008)

Skilled fish cookery was seen in an accurately timed fillet of roasted John Dory. This was creatively partnered with sweet cauliflower floret crisp , well judged cumin spicing, cauliflower milk skin and brown butter. As with the other dishes, the main element and garnishes were harmoniously matched, whilst the whole ensemble was visually stunning. (Wine: The Observatory, 2006, South Africa)

A succulent and sweet fillet of Romney lamb, served pink, came garnished with ewe’s cheese, garlic confit, and finished with a piquant  sauce lifted by the addition of olives, capers and anchovies. (Wine: Rioja Olivier Riviere, 2009)

Finally, one of the three vegetable desserts was served. Candied beetroot was a veritable tour de force of invention, with yogurt parfait encased in cigarette of beetroot gel, nuggets of sweetened beets, flavoured meringue and port syrup.

Strong coffee and excellent petits fours – chocolates, tuiles, nougats and jellies – completed a memorable meal.

Service was knowledgeable, attentive and unobtrusive. Wine pairing, in particular, demonstrated the superb knowledge and skill of the head sommelier Raphael Rodriguez.

Overall, it is clear that the new Tom Aikens restaurant is not just about the more casual, understated refurbishment. More importantly, it is showcases a highly talented, reinvigorated chef near the top of his craft. I hesitate to say at the “top” as he continues to surprise us with his inexhaustible creativity and energy. A strong impression has been made amongst the critics in the first three months as the restaurant goes from strength to strength. We shall all watch the Michelin Guide in autumn with interest.

Related posts:

1. The Savoy River Restaurant, London (February 2012)
2. Tom Aikens – Restaurant Review, September 2009
3. Kitchen Joel Antunes, The Embassy, London (March 2012)