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For the last twenty years, wherever I’ve been – for pleasure or business – I’ve sought out
the best restaurant in the area. Some would say an expensive affliction but to me there is
no greater natural high than the experience of a top quality restaurant. And having returned
to The Waterside around 8 times a year for the last 10 years I can honestly say that no
greater high is to be found.

After nearly two decades Diego Masciaga and the Waterside Inn have become
synonymous. His winning blend of awareness, instinct, charm, honesty and humility is
like a Roux trademark. He has the ability to make a person – whatever their mood,
whoever they are – feel good about themselves. It is something you cannot teach or
learn. It is worth its weight in gold. He has taught butlers for The Royal Family, served at
Windsor, the Kremlin and the Palace of King Hussein but from the moment he shakes
your hand with that twinkle in his eye, you are the most important person to him – and he
means it – he will remember details about you (and not just your dining preferences) that
make you feel special.

Diego was born in Oleggio, a small viallage near Stresa in Italy and by the age of 17 was
working in Alain Chapel’s Michelin Three Star restaurant. Two years later, in 1983, he
joined Le Gavroche where he was almost immediately promoted to Chef de Rang. By
1985 Diego was managing Le Mazarin for the Roux brothers which received a Michelin
Star within four months of opening. In 1988 he started at The Waterside as assistant
restaurant manager before being promoted to restaurant manager five months later.

As with any business the customer facing perception defines the brand and the Roux
brand has been in safe hands with Diego. We sat with him in one of the beautiful summer
houses and asked a few questions over coffee, this is what he had to say:-

How would you define the style of front of house at The Waterside?
It is more relaxed than the strict French, wholly-plated style. We aim to provide our
customers with a sense of occasion, an experience which balances relaxed formality with
warmth. We have what I call ‘big service’ here in that there is a large team that is well
drilled and utterly professional but make the guest feel at ease. When people come to the
Waterside they are typically not in a hurry and many regulars are maintaining on going
relationships with the staff, it is important that we are comfortable talking and interacting
with guests in an appropriate way. Service in Paris or London may move a little quicker or
be more arms length which works too in that environment. My idea of perfect service is
when the customer doesn’t see (or need to see) the waiter but what they need is provided
before they ask. If they have to ask we have failed. At the same time we respect
conversations, the art of service is not to be considered an interruption.

Have you noticed any changes in the type of customer over the years?
I have been here for 17 years and we’ve always had our share of high spending customer
– those from the Middle East and Far East in the 80’s through the dot com boom
millionaires and now the occasional Russian businessman. We’ve always had our share
of customers on business, a sprinkling of celebrities and our regulars too. My philosophy
is that everyone deserves their own square metre of red carpet. The service will be the
same whoever you are and wherever you sit in the restaurant. If it’s someone’s first visit
we want them to feel special and that they belong. We know that our customers are our
best form of advertising and refer new guests here all the time.

How important is staff continuity at The Waterside?
Very important. We have a policy to promote from within as continuity of staff helps with
continuity of customer: When you have been going to a restaurant every six weeks for a
year and each time you go the staff ask “may I have your name” it is not good enough, so
staff stability is very important. We recently had to replace two key members of the team
so we promoted from within to retain continuity of experience. In fact when we need to
recruit (this is one of the toughest aspects my job at the moment) the first thing I look for
on a CV is how long they have spent at other places, where they have worked is of course
important but if I know they will stay for at least two years then I can train and mould them
to our way of working.

Benoit Radenne & Diego Masciaga Alain Roux with Diego in the Kitchen

How does the Waterside manage to retain staff so well?
Well I like to think it is a happy place to work. We have a very good team spirit where
everyone is motivated to do their best and better themselves. You have to treat people
properly as well, with respect for their feelings, and recognize them when they do well. For
example, we recently had a Commis who I noticed had potential to work more interactively
with customers so I gave her the opportunity to work on reception – reception at The
Waterside is a very important role – and I am delighted that she's blossomed into the job.
Seeing people succeed and fulfill their potential gives me great pride and satisfaction. We
all work very long hours; an average of around 68 hours per week (compared to 45 hours
per week in France), but in spite of that I know that should I ask for a little bit more from
someone they will give it without question and that comes back to good attitude and team
spirit. With these long hours you also need strong support at home. I’ve been with my
wife Kerry for 16 years and we have two children, some days I get up to leave at 8am and
do not get in until 2am, but she has always been completely supportive and
understanding of my passion for the profession. I am very lucky because without that
support from my family I would not have had this career.

What sort of briefings do you give the team?
Well first thing in the morning I meet with my secretary and Benoit (Restaurant Manager) to
discuss who is coming as guests and plans for the day. There are two briefings with the
whole team. The first is at 11.45am and the second before dinner service. We go through
the menu of the day and lessons from the previous service, the lessons will be matters of
detail as the team is very well trained and drilled in what they should be doing. Today for
example, there were a few little details: how and when to strike a match to light a cigarette,
you must strike the match away from the guest and at an appropriate distance – it would
also be no good if the customer wanted to light the cigarette for themselves or for their
guest and the staff must be aware of this: Another detail was a reminder to never touch the
napkin with your fingers as the napkin goes to the customer’s lips: A third was not to move
the chair behind the customer with your foot but only with your arms, this is more difficult
but correct. It is in the details that we reach satisfaction, this is what we strive for. And yes
sometimes there is some tough talking, we are dealing with young people who
sometimes have a fine line between work and play, they have to appreciate our
professionalism and standards at all times.

And what is the structure of the team?
We have Benoit Radenne, the restaurant manager. Benoit took over from me when I was
promoted to Director earlier in the year. Then there will be a first Maitre d’Hotel
(Stephanie) with three Matire d’Hotel de Carre (station managers - Cico, Victor and Jean-
Francois), two Chef de Rang, two Demi Chef de Rang, three Commis on the floor, two
more Commis who carry the trays. There are five on wine headed by the Sommelier,
Fabrizio. Of course we also have staff working on the rooms, reception and bar. We have
a good balance of nationalities too – French, German and Italian – who all bring different
qualities to service. Fortunately I can speak each of these languages which is not only
important for communicating with the team but also with guests.

What sort of impact does Michelin (3 Star) have on the front of house?
I’m sure we’ve been inspected by Michelin several times this year. I never like to know
when a guide inspector or a journalist is here. Why? Because when you know it naturally
creates tension and that is no good. We know we have nothing to hide, I know if I lift this
cushion there will be no crumbs and I know if I touch here there will be no dust. We have a
regime where everything is done and checked several times every day. Three Stars to me
is the whole package – the setting, the food and the service - I remember when Derek
Brown (from Michelin) came here and I saw him looking under a service table, 5 or 6
bottles of water were stored there and it didn’t look right. I can tell you that that has not
happened since. From the coffee to the toilets to the freshly squeezed orange juice we
make sure everything is as it should be.

Have you had any feedback from Michelin about the transition from Michel to Alain?
This will be the first year, the transition has been very gradual and Alain has been here
many years. The family continuation is important and Alain is developing relationships
with our customers. He comes round at the end of every service and gets feedback from
the customers and has established himself as the face of the Waterside. All I know is we
have had our busiest year and there have been no complaints, we’re confident about our
consistency and consistency comes from being prepared.

Tell us about the Academy of Culinary Arts?
It is important to keep les arts de table alive. There is so much more to service than
putting a plate down in front of a customer. The top accolade is the Master of Culinary Arts,
the award is based upon the Meilleur Ouvrier de France. To be a Master of Culinary Arts in
service you take Les Arts de Tables examination which is held every four years – it’s like
the Olympics and Oscars combined (laughing). I went through this process in 2000 and it
was really tough. For the bar section I had to know the exact measures involved in making
60 different cocktails, you had to pick three out of a hat and have to make them there and
then. The next part was blind wine tasting and then mix and match wine with food. A
practical exam involved handling different customer situations. Then finally there was a
written exam. I was really sweating, (laughing) in the end three of us got the award out of
62 entrants. The MCA members meet as a group every two months or so and discuss the
issues of the day. We also organize the excellence programme for the up and coming. It
is a body I am proud and honoured to be associated with and long may it continue.