fine-dining-guide.com | Chef | Birmingham: Glynn Purnell Interview and Review

Emerging from the kitchen after the lunch service, Glynn Purnell still looks relaxed, cheerful and
bubbling with energy……….

The initial discussion was about food combinations and cooking techniques: goat’s cheese royale
and beetroot sorbet; scallops with mackerel and apple puree rather than with black pudding; his
love of vegetable starters; how to poach an egg yolk, which acts as a natural sauce for his dish of
cepes.

What amazes the listener is the creative buzz that preoccupies his thinking. Combinations of
colours – such as the pastel shades of pear and artichoke – as well as flavours, textures and
temperatures constantly inspire him. Crab with pear, rather than kohlrabi, ravioli worked better
given the need for sweetness.. Being able to picture a new taste combination, such as sweet and
sour lemon with pumpkin, helps drive him forward in the kitchen.

We talk of matters local. Where quality exists, he will use local suppliers. When time allows, he will
help the Midland Association of Chefs, especially the younger ones, and support the links with
Lyons. All of his team of five in the kitchen are local, three being graduates of the prestigious
School of Food.

The conversation switches to his experience and mentors. Surprisingly, despite being in kitchens
for 16 years, he has only been a chef in charge of his own kitchen for two. On reflection, his
preference for building up experience under top names such as Andreas Antona, Luke Tipping
and Claude Bossi, has provided the necessary skills to establish a Michelin recognised
restaurant. He was sous chef for two years each at Simpsons and Hibiscus: Simpsons gave him
a solid grounding in a mainly classical repertoire, whereas Claude Bossi taught him to be more
expressive.

His regime in the restaurant is non Ramsayesque. A more gentle, quiet approach has paid
dividends with staff, who are an enthusiastic and professional team. Front of House is the
charming Pascal Cuny. .Although he has the pick of the crop when recruiting staff, Glynn laments
the relative lack of dedication there used to be in the trade. Too many budding chefs nowadays
want to gain Michelin stars without having proved themselves on the basics.

Glynn is very optimistic about the Birmingham food scene, not just because he has been
nominated as a “Food Hero”. He stresses there has always been a strong food culture with the
diversity of ethnic restaurants, but opportunities for fine dining have been lacking. What is exciting
is that people are coming into rather than leaving the city to eat, encouraged by the city centre
development of retail outlets, cafes, bars and quality restaurants. As for his own restaurant and
Simpsons, the last year has shown – despite his initial fears – that demand is more than enough
to allow both of them to thrive. Their success will also encourage those on a lower level to raise
their game.

And what of the future?

Glynn is only 30 and is eager to develop further, despite the large number of accolades already
heaped upon him. Appreciating the limitations of décor, size and location of his present operation,
who knows what the future holds. What is unlikely to change is the creative energy and imagination
that injects his style of cooking with an excitement and dynamism rarely experienced at this level

Review of Jessicas

Roasted ceps with confit potatoes in rosemary, free range egg yolk, cep foam, potato crisps.
Served as a generous amuse bouche, it featured local – yes Edgbaston! – wild mushrooms, the
intense flavour and delicate texture of which provided a rich foil to the herb infused potato.

Royale of goat’s cheese with beetroot sorbet, watercress puree and beetroot crisps
Goat’s cheese in a palatable, non cloying form! Essentially a warm egg custard, it was beautifully
offset by an intense beetroot sorbet of perfect smoothness. The colours of this dish were
remarkable.

Smoked ham hock terrine, salad of pickled squid, tomato and muscavado marmalade, tomato
jelly. This unusual combination of strong flavours succeeded because they all complemented,
rather than conflicted with, each other.

Sauteed hand dived scallops with tartare of mackerel, cucumber, apple, hazelnut and mackerel
beignets. This was an inspired partnering of rich and poor man’s seafood. The delicate
sweetness of the scallop was balanced by the intense oily fishiness of the mackerel and the light
acidity of the apple puree.

Red mullet with roasted pumpkin, coriander seeds, parmesan and sweet and sour lemon. This
strongly flavoured fish harmonised well with its mild spicing,.and varied accompaniments.

Crab salad, pear ravioli, pigs trotter beignets, liquorice. This was an impromptu dish,
demonstrating true creativity. The freshness of the crab, the crisp sweetness of the pear and the
contrasting texture and temperatures of the beignets added to success of a dish that was both
delicate yet robust. .

Michelin Come to Birmingham - Part II (Jessica's - See Part I Simpsons

Duck breast caramelised pineapple,
smoked black olives and aromatic
mouli, veal jus The intensely flavoured
and perfectly timed Gressingham duck
breast was inventively paired with and
sweet and savoury garnishes in a lip
smacking, well reduced sauce.

Warm chocolate mousse with passion
fruit sorbet. For someone who does not
usually eat chocolate desserts, this dish
had a surprising lightness. The sorbet
was exquisite in taste and texture.

Blackberry parfait, yogurt and marjoram
sorbet, These two iced desserts married
well, with a fragrance reminiscent of the
hedgerows,