fine-dining-guide.com | Vineyard Restaurant Review 2005 (updated 2008)

The Vineyard
MIchelin: 2 Star GFG: 8/10 AA: 4 Rosette Points: 52
GB Rank:
Chef: John Campbell
Seats: 70

Stockcross,
RG20 8JU
www.the-vineyard .co.uk
Tel: 01635 528770

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'C' for Consistency, 'D' for Detail'
by Mark Geffryes, 2005

Driving through the gates, on a cold and damp
winter evening, the Vineyard is cleverly lit and
welcoming. When the Vineyard emerged from
the complete makeover during the latter part
of the last century Sir Peter Michael’s vision of
uniting his excellent Californian wines, with
the best cuisine, in a lovely rural setting must
have seemed a sure thing.

Having tempted David Sharland from the Savoy and given him free reign over the design of
the kitchen (both the fitting out and the style of food), and having staffed the restaurant to
cope with the anticipated demand, it must have been disappointing to see the lack of
interest from the well healed locals of the M4 corridor. This painful period saw much hand
wringing and a succession of very able chefs, culminating in the current incumbent John
Campbell (ex Lords of The Manor)..

This has not prevented the self styled ‘restaurant with room to stay’ from accumulating
awards – bedecked as it is with a Michelin Star, 4 AA Rosettes (5 for the Hotel), a 2003
Catey award for the Hotel and a commendable 8/10 from the Good Food Guide. Indeed
John Campbell is recognised by his peers as one treading a unique path between
Modern European and Molecular Gastronomy. His book Formulas for Flavour has
received critical acclaim.

In addition, the much expanded Vineyard - now with more than 3 times the number of
rooms and a spa - has found a niche as a Relais and Chateaux Hotel. The Vineyard fits
this group well: It has the Character: Calm : Charm : Courtesy and the Cuisine – the 5 “C”s
required of Relais and Chateaux members.

However, in our experience, one “C” has been missing and that is Consistency.

On this latest occasion, there was no-one outside to meet and greet guests or to park the
car (a nice touch that had always reminded of le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons.)

Once inside, the bar and lounge area were densely populated with staff. The usual pot
luck ensued as to being ‘found and watered,’ an unfortunate symptom of high staff
turnover (who must be in perpetual ‘training’) – once again few of the staff were
recognisable as they milled around doing something. Being a relatively loyal customer (20
plus visit since 1996) I was greeted in the normal way - like I’d never been there before.

Upon being ushered through to the theatre of food, the front of house moved through the
gears - attentive and efficient, knowledgeable, and prompt.

The Dining room is split level, spacious and undoubtedly impressive, the eye naturally
gravitates to the lower deck with the lake and flickering flame beyond. You cannot help but
take your seat with a sense of anticipation; the good eating experiences have outweighed
the bad.

Then something strange happened - piped music – the sense of familiarity and well being
temporarily broken, one hoped a blip in the restaurant manager’s thinking. Unperturbed,
we perused the menu, three of them in fact - The tasting menu at £65, the market menu at
£35 (for 3 courses), and the a la carte at £55 (for 3 courses). The vast wine list is split
between Californian and rest of the world, with an extensive and expensive range.

Onto the food, the bread was, as usual, excellent, presented in four varieties with the moist
white bread with potato and yoghurt outstanding. The consistency issue immediately
cropped up, having half expected canapés – as are they served around half the time – they
did not arrive. This was soon forgotton as a pre-starter of artichoke foam with dripped oil,
delivered a lingering rich flavour enhanced by the truffle oil.

Corn fed poussin included drum sticks that were tender and delicately flavoured, balanced
with vegetables. Venison was perfectly timed, pink in the middle, sitting on wilted spinach
and on top of a pumpkin risotto – a cranberry sauce encircled the components. The
cranberry lifted and enhanced the dish without overpowering, the contrast of tastes and
textures worked well and for a rich combination of components, the pumpkin risotto
retained some lightness to the overall affect.

Chocolate mousse with praline sorbet was flavour packed, slightly lacking in quantity, but
satisfying nonetheless.

Coffee was, as always, good value at £3.75, accompanied as it is by a selection of
chocolates. It is reassuring to see they are still making good use of the chocolate room
specified as part of the original kitchen design.

Once you leave the table, the front of house goes back down a gear, you can simply fall off
the radar in the comfortable lounge, invariably having to go in search of staff to ask for the
bill. This time was no different and the lack of attention to detail in this department is
somewhat frustrating Unfortunately the error is typically compounded by the bill being
been wrongly calculated - surprising as it is with such simple menu pricing structure -
unusually, this time, it was £2 in my favour.

In summary, John Campbell's cooking befits the plush dining room and up-market
setting. It is less the 'C' for Consistency in the output of the kitchen – with or without
canapés, pre puds or amuses – but more the whole package that loses attention to 'D' for
Detail. Where Le Manoir gets it right, The Vineyard misses a trick. Food wise the Michelin
star is warranted although one would have thought at the lower end of that bracket, for
example a 6/10 or 7/10 in the Which Good Food Guide. 8/10 seems just too high,
particularly when you consider similar rated GFG restaurants, such as The Square and
Champignon Sauvage.

Nonetheless, the Vineyard does fit well with the Relais & Chateaux style and it would be
no surprise to see greater involvement and marketing through that brand in the future.

And by the way - I will return.